Exploring the Lisbon Coast

If you are staying at Cascais or Estoril  – as most visitors to the Lisbon Coast do – you need to venture barely half an hour inland to reach Sintra, stunningly set on the slopes of the Serra de Sintra hills. The road up from the coast snakes through woods of eucalyptus, fern trees, magnolias and camellias, which – even in the height of summer – retain their green lushness and produce a heady fragrance. To the west, rolling down towards the sea and blanketing the hills, are the vineyards of Colares where that irresistible wine which I so covet, is grown.

Sintra itself is a wonderland of fairy-tale castles, and icing-sugar palaces rising out of the foliage. Saunter along the forest trails to appreciate the astounding beauty of the surroundings, before touring the exuberant Palácio Nacional de Sintra (National Palace) and the bizarrely multicoloured Palácio de Pena (Pena Palace) where the kings and queens of Portugal used to retreat for the summer; and the romantic Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors). Then – and here’s my top tip – head for the wild west coast for some of the freshest, most mouthwatering Atlantic fish and seafood you’ll ever have sample.

Half an hour down the coast, Cascais has cobbled back streets and lanes reminiscent of the Alfama and is still a fishing port like Lisbon used to be before it grew into a great city thanks to its prime position on the Tagus estuary. Cascais’ narrow streets, squares and courtyards are almost impossibly quaint, dripping with sweet-smelling bougainvillea, plumbago and jasmine. This hugely popular village is swollen, but not overwhelmed, by tourists in the summer months. Crowds, particularly young couples, bask in the sun by day, then dance in the clubs till the early hours. However, fishermen still land the daily catch on glorious Praia da Ribeira and Praia da Rainha beaches, though it is only early birds (or very late-night revellers) who witness the dawn sardine auction. By the time the sun-worshippers arrive, the brightly-painted boats have been hauled up the sand and turned up-side down.

Glitzier, elegant Estoril, meanwhile, is basking in the reflected glory of having been Ian Fleming’s original inspiration for Casino Royale when, during World War II, he stalked the spies who gathered round the resort’s roulette tables. Since then, the resort has continued to be a playground for film stars and royalty, and has recently been spruced up with new roads, green spaces and sea-front promenades lines with grand hotels and smart apartment blocks. The fine-sanded beach is huge and shelves gently into the sea, which makes it an excellent bet for families with small children. But behind are little pockets of Portugal – orange trees lining the streets, old men reading newspapers, kids kicking footballs and some great little fish restaurants. I love Estoril and all its glamour, but after a day exploring the Lisbon coast, I’ll still settle for a bottle of Colares over a dry martini any day. Unshaken, unstirred.