Guide to Tel Aviv

Beaches

There aren't many cities in the world where you can step straight onto golden sands – and squeaky-clean sands for that matter. Tel Aviv's got some of the world's cleanest urban beaches. And Mother Nature certainly worked her magic here. The coastline's blessed with 13 kilometres of the soft stuff. And the good old Med provides welcome relief from the heat of the city. The most popular strips are in the centre – and there's quite a few of them. Take your pick from Gordon, Frischann, Trumpeldor and Jerusalem beach. If you like the volume turned down a notch when you're tanning, head eight miles south to Bat Yam beach. Turning its cheek on the hustle and bustle, it attracts a more leisurely suburban crowd. Or if sitting still drives you distraction, hotfoot it to Tzuk Beach, just north of city. It's a popular spot with kite-surfers.

Eating out

• There's an old Jewish proverb 'eat and drink today, for tomorrow you may die'. And that's certainly something Tel Aviv's taken to heart. True to its cosmopolitan credentials, it's packed with Italian, Japanese and Thai restaurants. But don't get so carried away with your spaghetti and your spring rolls that you overlook the Israeli specials. Look out for a 'chafla' - a rice, salad and spit-roasted meat combo. Other must-tries include tangy 'labane' cheese, 'tahina' sesame seed sauce and Israel's unofficial national dish 'falafel' - spiced balls made from chickpeas or fava beans. It's usually served in hot pitta with generous amounts of houmous. If it's your first time in the city a good starting point is the port area. Packed to rafters with restaurants, it often seems to have more eating places than people. And if you're on a budget, look out for the lunch deals called a 'business meal'. These set menus are great value and most restaurants serve them up them during the week.
  
  
• Osteria de la Fiorella, Ben Yehuda Street This family-run Italian with a relaxed ambience has been bringing a taste of Rome to Tel Aviv for the past 20 years.
  
• Cafe Mersand, Ben Yehuda Frishman Corner An old favourite in the city, this cafe serves tasty snacks and has laid-back evening entertainment.
  
• Batia, Dizengoff Street An authentic Jewish restaurant that's been dishing up traditional home-cooked delights like 'schnitzel' for the last 60 years.
  
• Mul Yam, Tel Aviv Port Voted best restaurant in the world in 2003 by 'Les Grandes Tables du Monde', the gourmet fish and seafood here comes with a price tag.
  
• Stephan Brown, Allenby Street Once an exclusive shop, this old building is now a restaurant serving Moroccan and Middle Eastern meals which can be eaten in the Italian-style garden.

Nightlife

• If you've ever been to a Jewish wedding, it'll come as no surprise the people of Tel Aviv know how to party. It's THE place to go for a night on the tiles in Israel. In fact the locals joke that 'while Jerusalem prays, Tel Aviv plays'. And they're not wrong. When it comes to nights out, the city could give New York a run for its money. So much so it's nicknamed 'the city that never stops'. It's big. It's bright. It's buzzing. And you'll find every sort of bar under the sun, which don't get going until 11pm at the earliest. If you've got the stamina, follow the crowds to one of the clubs – there are dozens to choose from, with kicking-out time coinciding with breakfast. But it's not all about sinking shots and dancing the PM into the AM. A bit like Spain and Italy, Tel Aviv's favourite pastime is people-watching. Dizengoff Street is chocker with cafes and the number one spot for sipping coffee ice-cream sodas – the local's drink of choice – and clocking the city's beautiful people. Herbert Samuel Esplanade-Ha-Tayelet is another cafe-packed strip. It runs parallel to the beach so you've got the added bonus of caffeine with a sea view.
  
  
• HaOman, Abrabanel Street Top-name DJs man the Technics at this, one of the city's most happening clubs.
  
• Pola, Ben Gurion Blvd Art Deco meets Oriental at this elegant bar that's just the ticket for sophisticated drinking.
  
• Molly Bloom, Mendele Street Tel Aviv's first Irish pub pours pints that are the genuine article - namely Guinness and Kilkenny.
  
• Mish Mish, Lilenblum Street Join the jazz crowd at this cocktail bar where live music, pricey drinks and intellectual conversation are the mainstay.
  
• Whisky a Gogo, Hataarucha Street Turn up in your best togs at this uber-cool club where different rooms play different music to suit your mood.

Shopping

If you want to splash some shekels about, you can shop in plenty of style here. The huge Kikar Hamedina Square is chock-a-block with chic boutiques and big designer names. And Tel Aviv's not short on shopping malls, either. Big glitzy American-style numbers whose air-con alone is enough to tempt you in. The Gan Hair, near Rabin Square, is particularly good, whether you're after a fashion fix or a new addition to your shoe collection. For a more intimate shopping experience, Alenby Street's the place to go. It's crammed with little one-off stores, everything from naughty-but-nice bakeries to dusty old bookshops. Shenkin Street, meanwhile, has got a Bohemian air. Cue lots of little art shops and trinket-stuffed emporiums. Whatever you do though, don't miss out on the markets. A bit like a Turkish bazaar, the stalls have got 'rummage' written all over them and come with a side serving of conjurers and fortune tellers. Have a poke around the Nachlat Benyamim market. Or try Shook Hakarmel that's stacked with fruit and veg, pastries, clothes and souvenirs. It's an experience and a half.