An ancient city, a modern metropolis - India's spellbinding capital is a place like no other. A place where blush-coloured ruins jostle for space with high-rise towers, bustling bazaars sprawl one street down from neon-lit shopping malls, and bullock carts tread the same timeworn paths as the latest luxury cars. Turn one way and Mughal-built monuments proclaim a majestic and imperial past, turn the other and a plethora of lively bars point to the city's pulsating present. An amalgam of eight cities, Delhi is jam-packed with sights of historical, cultural and religious importance. Combine these with world-class shopping, a rich and tasty cuisine, and the best in dance, music and theatre, and you'll soon see this is a city worth stopping in.
A host of great empires have been ruled from Delhi and each successive leader has left a lasting impression on this ancient city. Of all the separate strands that have combined to form today's Delhi, two are the most prominent. Old Delhi was the capital of Muslim India between the 17th and 19th centuries and it's here you'll find such treasures as the famous Red Fort and the incredible 3-domed Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque, as well as some of the greatest architectural delights in all of India. New Delhi, meanwhile, was built by the British in the 1930s as their imperial capital, and encompasses wide avenues, elegant boulevards and colonial mansions, with a generous scattering of government buildings and embassies. Of course your entire holiday could easily be devoted to delving into Delhi's colourful past, but there's plenty more to do should you have your fill of history. The city is peppered with picturesque parks that act as a tranquil breath of fresh air from the thronging streets. Lodi Gardens is one of the nicest, a popular haunt with joggers, yoga enthusiasts and families. Pristine lawns and colourful flowerbeds are plotted around the 15th-century tombs of the Sayyid and Lodi dynasties, Delhi's last sultans. When you've recharged your batteries, head for Chandni Chowk in the heart of Old Delhi. Brimming with evocative sights, sounds and smells, it's a great place to eat, shop and watch the exuberant theatre of everyday life unfold.
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Eating out
There's no shortage of choice when it comes to dining out in Delhi. From roadside stalls selling deep-fried poppadums to celebrated restaurants serving up traditional north Indian cuisine and a whole host of outlets dishing up Western food, there's something to suit every palate and pocket. For a myriad of foreign flavours order a thali, or platter, comprising small bowls of meat, vegetables and lentils, accompanied by bread, rice, pickles and chutneys. Popular dishes include kadhai murgh, stir-fried chicken, malai kofta, curried vegetable balls, and raita, a cooling whipped yoghurt. Grilled tandoori food is popular, with meat, fish, and vegetables marinated in yoghurt and flavoured with spices before being grilled on skewers. For the best in Mughlai cuisine head to Karim's, tucked away in a narrow lane to the south of Jami Masjid. Named after a legendary 19th-century chef, the restaurant is arguably Delhi's most authentic Mughlai eatery with closely-guarded recipes whispered down through generations of chefs. A great place to sample regional specialities is Dilli Haat, Delhi's open-air market where you'll find delicious dishes like Goan prawn curry and Bengali fish curry. A word of warning though - Indian food is often infused with a profusion of spices which locals may be able to swallow with ease but outsiders might take a while to get used to!
Nightlife
Pubs and clubs are popping up all over Delhi at the moment, remaining low-key during the week but taking it up a gear at weekends. On the cultural front, art venues abound in Delhi. Well-known Indian dancers and musicians often perform in the capital, and Delhi's many theatres provide the platform for innovative shows in both Hindi and English. There's almost always something on at the India International Centre or the colossal India Habitat Centre where you can enjoy free performances. Scattered across the city you'll find a number of good cinemas bringing you all the latest hits from both Hollywood and Bollywood.
Shopping
For sheer variety, there's nowhere quite like Delhi when it comes to shopping. Old, family-run shops, traditional bazaars and bustling markets stand cheek by jowl with upmarket boutiques, designer shops and cavernous department stores. Old Delhi's bazaars are legendary. In Chandni Chowk each lane has a speciality and you'll be dazzled by the spectacular array of tightly-packed stalls loaded with everything from oriental rugs and glittering gold jewellery to colourful saris, tinsel garlands and turbans. In New Delhi, the main shopping centres are in and around Connaught Place where you'll find everything from traditional Indian clothing to hi-tech gadgets. The Central Cottage Emporium in Jawahar Bhavan at Janpath is definitely worth a visit, with textiles, souvenirs and jewellery at reasonable prices. If you're interested in antiques, Sundar Nagar is the place to head.
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