Guide to Goa

Beaches

Without a doubt Goa's main attraction are its tropical beaches – all 105 kilometres of them. Wherever you go sunshine peeps through leafy palms onto fine sands. Some swathes - like Morjim, Agonda and Patnem - are virtually untouched, with fishing boats, sleepy villages and coconut groves providing the backdrop. We're talking near-deserted numbers where the only set of footprints you're likely to see in the sand are your own. Others - like Baga, Calangute, Candolim and Cavelossim - are packed with sun-bathers, hair-braiders and fruit-sellers. But even these busier 'tourist' stretches are fairly low key, with bamboo-and-thatch beach bars and colonial-style accommodation pulled up against the shore. Now, it would be criminal to talk about Goa's beaches and not mention Palolem. Lately, it's acquired something of a star status. Tucked in a picture-perfect horseshoe, its white sands are washed by neon-bright turquoise. It's the kind of beach you stare at longingly on those posters in the travel agent window. One thing's for sure, it's well worth the trek down south to seek out. Oh, and in case you were wondering, there are still some hippy hangouts – check out Arambol, one of the last great 'peace man' beaches.

Eating out

• If you're among the 2.5million Brits popping down to their local curry house each week, you'll love Goa. After all, where better to have an Indian than in, well, India? Vindaloo. Tandoori. Biryani. You'll find all your favourites here, not to mention coconut-centric Goan curries. Check out the 'dhabas' or 'bhojanalyas', basic little eateries that are great value for money where the cooking's done right in front of you. Often 'dhals', mushy curry-spiced lentils, are served up for free – you just pay for the side of rice or chapattis. If you want to give your tastebuds a real workout though, order a 'thali'. India's answer to Spanish tapas, it's a collection of curried dishes, sauces and a mountain of rice. If curry and spice isn't your thing though, don't worry - the big hotels cater really well for Western palettes. But Goa's got some specialities of its own, quite distinct from the rest of India, worth trying. For centuries it was a Portuguese colony and you can still feel the influence. In fact, with dishes like 'recheiado', 'caldeirada' and 'chouricos', you could be forgiven for thinking you're on the Algarve. Goa's also party central for seafood. Expect plenty of fresh fish, crab, shrimp and lobster. On the dessert front, Goa serves up 'bebinca' - sweetmeat coconut pancakes to tempt even the size zeros. As to alcohol, it's really cheap. Kingfisher beer is the locals' brew of choice while the 30% proof 'feni' – made from double distilled coconut or palm sap – is a hangover waiting to happen. And on the subject of drinks, here's a hot tip - literally. If your mouth's on fire after all that curry, don't bother asking for water - curd or yoghurt do the job far better.
  
  
• Casa Portuguesa, Baga – Housed in a cutesy old bungalow, this restaurant is a great place to try Goa's Portuguese-infused cuisine.
  
  
• Fiesta Restaurant, Baga – For a taste of the Med, give this restaurant a whirl. Tuck into favourites like moussaka, paella and pasta. And the ten-inch margherita pizza comes highly recommended.
  
  
• Souza Lobo, Calangute – Something of a culinary institution, this place first opened its doors back in 1932. Goan specialities and top-notch seafood take centre-stage and the vindaloo here's a real talking point.
  
  
• Horse Shoe Restaurant, Panaji – With mouth-watering fish curry and chicken in piquant sauce, this restaurant offers up some seriously tasty Goan food. Don't miss the cashew nut cake – it's out of this world.
  
  
• Palm and Sands, Candolim – The seafood's definitely worth shouting about here. The crab and lobster dishes take some beating.

Nightlife

• If you're a bit of a party animal, then Goa's your zoo. Ever since the hippies made this place their Mecca back in the 60's, it's been India's premier nightspot – it even gives the likes of Delhi and Mombai a run for their money. It's perhaps best known for its famous - or infamous depending on your opinion - Full Moon Parties. They tend to be held on Anjuna and Vagator beaches, which have now become the unofficial Full Moon capitals. Still as popular as ever, people travel from all over the globe to experience these fluorescent gatherings. Usually starting around midnight, they're the place to be if you want to dance until dawn. Wide-eyed Brits stomp their feet to the pounding trance music. First time backpackers stand in awe as the commotion unfolds. And locals juggle fire, lighting up the night sky. It's a real melting pot of nationalities, joined together for one wild night of partying. Be warned though – these events are strictly for hardcore party-goers. But there's a flipside to Goa's night-time scene. For Western-style clubs and bars, make a beeline for Calangute and neighbouring Baga. Here, you'll find a number of top waterholes – including the now legendary Tito's Bar - as well as lots of big hotels that have their own discos. Of course, you might just want to pad down to one of the beachside shacks and chill out with a cocktail to the soundtrack of the sea.
  
  
• Tito's Bar, Baga - Probably the best-know of Goa's late night spots, this place is popular with tourists and the locals. The mix of hip hop, house and a few retro classics ensure the dancefloor's packed from sundown to sunup.
  
  
• Club Cabana, Arpora - Set in a converted mansion, this is where the beautiful people come to hang out. Whether you're lounging by the indoor pool or sipping champagne in your private booth, it's VIP treatment all the way. And with unlimited drinks included in the entrance fee, you'll soon see why this place is the talk of the town.
  
  
• Club Antos, Calangute - Bang on the sands, this bar's ideal for a sundowner. Kicking off with a few down-tempo tunes before dark, the evening then shifts up a gear with a bit of tough house and bassy hip hop. Here, the atmosphere's so electric it could be running off Goa's national grid.
  
  
• Club Extreme, Panaji - Pumping out a selection of glittery disco bangers, this is the place to throw some serious shapes. But forget white suits and the Bee Gees – this is disco music 21st century-style. And it's open every day of the week, so there's no excuse for missing the party.
  
  
• Alvoc, Colva - If it's theme nights you're after, this place covers all musical bases. There's the dirty rock of The Stones. The poetic jazz of Gil Scott Heron. And the finest floor fillers of Studio 54. Night after night, you're treated to a sneaky peek of God's jukebox.

Shopping

Okay, so designer boutiques and glitzy shopping malls aren't exactly ten a penny in these parts. But that's really not what Goa's about. Instead, it treats you to eye-popping markets, the likes of which you can imagine Michael Palin wandering around with a camera crew in tow. Take Mapusa's weekly offering. Every Friday, a circus of stalls rolls into town. Like big top ringmasters, hollering merchants entice the crowds. And the main act? Trestle tables piled high with wood carvings and little papier-mache boxes. Crates overflowing with pineapples and melons. And knick-knacks made from shells and bamboo laid out on the ground. The star turn, however, has to be the rainbow-coloured spice stalls. Saffron, turmeric and chilli are sculpted into little powder pyramids. And the giddy mix of smells leaves you in no question as to where you are in the world. It's a similar set up at Panaji's market. From fresh fish to beachwear – and everything in between - it's a great carnival of a marketplace that has to be seen to be believed. But Anjuna's Wednesday flea market is perhaps the most dazzling of them all. There are performing monkeys. Fortune-telling bulls. Silks. Saris. Sarongs. Not to mention wide-eyed puppets, Kashmiri rugs and plenty of bargain-hunters on the search for some take-homes. Oh and on the subject of bargains, here's a hot tip. Some big name Western brands have got shops in Panaji. And because companies like Levi's and Lacoste produce lots of their goods in India, you'll be able to pick up designer togs for a fraction of the price you'd pay at home.