Guide to Costa De Almeria

Beaches

If the idea of nose-to-nose sunbeds fills you with dread, you’ll love this part of Spain. While this particular Costa is big on sand, it’s pretty low on the holiday hordes compared to some its siblings. So all along its shores you’ll find fantastic beaches and coves with plenty of space to set up that sunshade. Take Mojacar. Its got several beaches to its name, running the full spectrum from buzzing and developed to secluded and solitary. So it’s a matter of eeny-meeny-miny-mo depending on your mood. For a classic fix of sun, sea and fun, hotfoot it to the main beach. Bordered by a café-lined promenade and watersports rentals, it offers mile upon mile of caramel-coloured sands and pebbles. For something quieter, there are some fantastic off-the-beaten track swathes to consider. Head a little out of town and you’ll discover cliff-framed coves and sandy strips made for undisturbed lounging. It’s a similar story in Carboneras. As well as a fantastic main beach, it’s bordered by quiet bays perfect for snoozing against a backdrop of dusty hills and blue seas. Then there’s Roquetas de Mar. Its two-mile ribbon of sand and shingle is one of the best on the Costa and glides into gentle waves. Better still, it’s hardly ever crowded, so there’s always room to stake out your territory. And wherever you plant yourself here, you’re never far from a ‘chiringuito’ beach bar or a watersports centre. One last tip. If you’re still in solitude-seeking mode, strike out for the Cabo de Gata National Park. Clasped between ochre hills, this rugged chunk of coastline is criss-crossed with creeks, sandbars and tranquil coves. It’s wonderfully wild and deserted.

Eating out

• The Costa de Almeria ticks most of the culinary boxes. In the bigger resorts like Roquetas de Mar and Mojacar, you’ll find plenty in the way of British-run cafes, pubs and restaurants dishing up classic fare like hunger-busting fry ups and good old fish’n’chips. Both resorts do a mean line in curry houses, Chinese restaurants and Italians, too. And of course, you can let your tastebuds loose on the local cuisine. Try some tapas for starters – you’re in Andalucia, after all. Dig into slivers of Serrano ham, over-sized olives and sizzling ‘gambas’ - plump prawns fried in fresh garlic. It comes as no surprise that, this part of the world is all systems go in the seafood department, either. The waterfronts of Roquetas, Mojacar and Carboneras are flanked with fish restaurants specialising in the catch of the day. Some of the best come courtesy of the ‘chiringuitos’ – outdoor bar-come-restaurants perched right on the beaches. Grab a pew and tuck into char-grilled sardines and squid coated in light-as-a-feather batter. Alternatively, feast on some ‘gachas’. This hot, spicy stew is filled-to-bursting with big juicy clams. For something rustically robust, however, you’ll need to head inland. Andalucia’s villages are known for treats like wild rabbit and ‘gazpacho’ - cucumber, garlic and tomato soup. Desserts are just as tempting. Think creamy flans laden with fresh fruits. Deep fried pastries smothered in honey called ‘pestinos’. And rich custard puddings like you’ve never tasted. The treats keep coming in liquid form, too. Wine-wise, the local Laujar, Ohanes and Berja varieties are fantastic. And don’t miss the local ‘fino’ sherry. Sipped chilled with tapas, it’s the perfect accompaniment to a sunny Spanish day.
  
  
• El Almejero, Garrucha – Feast on some of the freshest fish this side of the Med at this harbourside charmer in Garrucha. Specials include fall-off-the-bone red mullet and barbecued anchovies.
  
• Flamingo, Roquetas de Mar – A favourite with Brits, this affable Spanish eatery offers up seriously tasty tapas and delicious regional specialities in a lively atmosphere. Great value, too.
  
• Bengal Palace, Mojacar – Hankering after some curry? Then hotfoot it here to tuck into the slow-cooked specials. Don’t miss the jalfrezi.
  
• Beijoseph, Roquetas de Mar – Eat your body weight in paella at this always-busy eaterie on Roquetas’ promenade. A great family haunt, it stages traditional Spanish guitar nights, too.
  
• El Bistro, Roquetas de Mar – Finger-licking spare ribs. Giant prawns drenched in ginger. And bananas flambéed in Baileys. All chintzy wicker chairs, this popular eatery conjures up an endless array of dishes to keep everyone happy.

Nightlife

• The Costa Blanca and Costa del Sol this is not. Unlike its party-powered neighbours, this slice of Spanish coastline prefers its evenings a little more easy-going. Think balmy evenings spent sipping sangria. Long ambles along the seafront. Or romantic meals out under the stars. If you do fancy upping the pace, there are some upbeat hangouts, too. Take Roquetas de Mar. Come nightfall, a clutch of music bars, karaoke dens and British-run pubs open up along the seafront, offering everything from quiz nights to sing-a-longs. And if you’re up for more, hotfoot it to Roquetas’ one and only disco – it blasts out glitterball greats right through ‘til sun-up. It’s a similar story in Mojacar, too. All along the beachfront, open-air bars and a couple of heavyweight danceclubs promise full-on party nights. Alternatively, keep the vibe slow by disappearing into inland villages like Nijar and old Mojacar. Their pretty backstreets are home to tapas bars and bodegas perfect for peaceful evenings. Look out for traditional flamenco dens, too. With their foot-stomping dancers and strumming guitars, these Andalucian nightspots offer up a slice of raw Spain.
  
  
• Bar Time and Place, Old Mojacar – Up for a smoochy, sangria-sipping evening? Then snuggle up in this atmospheric old cavern bar near Mojacar’s old city gate.
  
• Pacha, Mojacar – Grab those glowsticks for some hardcore partying at this trendy club on Mojacar beach. You can’t miss it – just watch for the giant spotlight in the night sky.
  
• La Scala, Roquetas de Mar – Spanish and British pop keep this place pumping from midnight till morn.
  
• Tabla Medieval Wien, Roquetas de Mar – If you fancy a fun theme night, this mock Medieval inn will hit the spot. Cue communal tables, free-flowing beer and rowdy party games.
  
• Irish Rovers, Mojacar – One of Mojacar’s most popular hangouts, this beachfront waterhole is just the ticket for rollicking karaoke, big-screen sports and wild knees-ups.

Shopping

The Costa de Almeria is down-to-earth when it comes to shopping. Because it’s less developed than many of Spain’s Costas, expensive designer shops and chi-chi boutiques aren’t really its bag. That said, there’s still more than enough to keep souvenir-hunters and fashion-followers on their toes. For touristy bits and pieces, Roquetas de Mar is your best bet. Around its seafront and centre, you’ll find scores of stores selling Andalucian gifts like senorita fans, leather bags and jauntily painted ceramics. If it’s clothes you’re after, make tracks to Roquetas’ Gran Plaza. This glitzy new mall has more than enough UK and Spanish fashion chains to have your suitcase bulging on your return trip. And don’t miss the town’s open-air market. A colourful circus of curios, it’s great for bargain-hunters and rolls into the main square every Thursday. Mojacar’s good for a shot of retail therapy as well. Just head to the waterfront and spend a morning poking through the souvenir shops selling everything from postcards to hand-painted pottery. And for something a bit more sophisticated, check out the Parque Commercial. This mall may be small but it’s big on beachwear boutiques and arty gift outlets. For serious shopping splurges though, it has to be Almeria, and the Paseo de Almeria in particular. This elegant tree-lined boulevard is lined with high fashion boutiques and designer stores. Alternatively, go rustic and head for the hills. When it comes to finding genuine Andalucian crafts, villages like Nijar, Sorbas and Vicar are absolute goldmines. Scour their workshops and outdoor markets and you’ll come back laden with handicrafts. Pick up a dish still warm from the potters’ ovens of Sorbas or snap up a straw sunhat from the Sunday market in Vicar.