Guide to Madeira

Beaches

A bit like the Neapolitan Riviera, Madeira's all about steep cliffs plunging sharply into the sea. That said, there are plenty of places to stretch out next to the sea and catch some rays, most of which are either pebbly or man-made. The closest to a Mediterranean-style beach is probably Ribeira Brava and there's a manmade stretch of golden sand at Calheta. The nearest beach to Funchal is Praia Formosa, three small sandy bits and a larger sweep of pebbles. One of the most spectacularly set beaches is Prainha in the area of Ponta de Sao Lourenco on the island's north east tip, a sheltered cove of black, volcanic sand with parasols and sun beds. There are also several bathing complexes and lidos around the island, including the popular lido in Funchal and Sao Vincente in the north of the island, which has breakers and so attracts a fair amount of surf dudes. But for the ultimate lazy day, you need to head to Porto Santo. Just a short ferry ride will bring you to nine kilometres of soft golden sand.

Eating out

• With its Portuguese influences, Madeira's traditional cooking has more than a dash of rustic peasantry about it. As with most island nations, fish is abundant, and you can dine out relatively cheaply on grilled 'espada' - scabbard fish - tuna or swordfish, accompanied by a chilled glass or two of 'vinho verde'. The Madeirans are not big on starters, but tomato and onion soup is a popular speciality, as are clams, mussels or oysters. Alternatively, you can kick off your meal with a slice or two of hot 'bolo do caco', a deliciously chewy bread, usually spread thickly with garlic butter. When it comes to main courses, veggies will struggle to find much to excite them, apart from the wonderful fresh fruit. But if you're a meat-eater you'll be in foodie heaven. Top of the pops are 'espetada' - beef kebabs - 'carne de vinho e alhos' - pork marinated in wine vinegar and garlic - and 'picado' - pan fried beef and red peppers. With Madeira cake renowned throughout the world, it will come as no surprise that the islanders love their cakes and pastries. In just about every cafe and restaurant you'll find a mouth-watering selection of goodies, including such irresistible, calorie-packed delights as 'queijadas' - cottage cheese cakes - and 'bolo de mel' - honey and molasses cake. Of course, you don't have to dine native if you don't want to. In Funchal there's a wide choice of cosmopolitan-style eateries, from burger bars to Chinese. And the Madeirans also have their own version of fast food, called 'prego', a thin slice of grilled steak served in a bun. As for drinks, the sherry-like Madeira wine is a classic. However, there are other locally made table wines to tempt you, including some good dry whites and the Atlantis rose. And for a refreshing non-alcoholic tipple, there's 'brisa maracuja', a heavenly passion-fruit nectar.
  
  
• A Seta, Funchal This rustic tavern is set on a mountainside just outside Funchal. It's pretty much a meat-only zone, with the speciality being kebabs cooked over a wood fire.
  
  
• The Dining Room at Reid's Palace, Funchal Dress up and step back to a more refined age at Madeira's iconic monument to old colonial elegance. Check out the chandeliers!
  
  
• Pizzaria Xaramba, Funchal Located in the old town, this great value eaterie couldn't be further in character from the Dining Room at Reid's. The best pizza and pasta in Funchal and a lively, young clientele.
  
  
• Doca do Cavacas, Ponte da Cruz Set right on the seafront, just round the coast from Funchal centre, this excellent fish restaurant is reasonably priced and offers superb views.
  
  
• Abrigo do Pastor, Camacha Located over 100 metres above sea level in a rural area north of Funchal, this former hunting lodge serves typical Madeiran meat and game dishes, including suckling pig and rabbit.

Nightlife

• Having a reputation of being, shall we say, conservative, Madeira is by no means totally devoid of nightlife and there are plenty of places to find some after-dark fun and entertainment. During the week, most of the locals tend to retire early, but at weekends many of them let their hair down and party, so the nightlife scene tends to sizzle a lot more on Saturday nights. Most visitors looking for action head for the glitzy entertainment complex at the Pestana Park Resort Hotel. It's home to the only casino on the island and also has a nightclub with floor show. You can try your luck on one of around 200 slot machines or have a flutter at the tables. There are no less than seven roulette wheels to tempt you to part with your hard earned cash! For those who want to bop into the early hours, there are several music bars and discos in Funchal, based in the bigger hotels or independent venues in the centre of town. And it's not all DJs and dance music. At the Copacabana, for example, there's often a fashion show or a live band before the disco pumps up the volume at around 1am. Alternatively, for a more relaxed evening, seek out one of the panoramic seafront bars, or head for the old town's network of streets and alleys, where you'll find plenty of hostelries with authentic traditional atmosphere. Many of the bigger hotels also offer regular live entertainment, including music, cabaret and folklore shows, usually open to non-residents.
  
  
• Pestana Park Entertainment Complex, Funchal Designed by world-famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, this large, flashy complex is home to Madeira's only casino.
  
  
• Copacabana, Funchal Effectively part of the Pestana Park complex, this reasonable size club has a big dance floor and a 'live' stage.
  
  
• Vespas, Funchal Known as the 'Cathedral of Madeiran Nightlife' this trendy, warehouse-style club has an 'underground' feel.
  
  
• The Prince Albert Pub, Funchal Feeling homesick? Drop in to the Prince Albert for a pint of ale and a game of snooker.
  
  
• Joe's Bar, Funchal Part of the Quinta da Penha da Franca hotel, this friendly establishment is a pleasant place to enjoy a relaxed drink and listen to the resident pianist.

Shopping

A trip to Madeira is something of a busman's holiday for shopaholics. If you wanted to, you could probably spend most of your holiday browsing or spending your euros, particularly in Funchal, where there's every aspect of the retail world, from traditional handicraft emporia to modern malls. What's more, you won't have to sacrifice sunbathing time for a trip to the shops. Opening times vary in the smaller establishments, but the bigger shopping centres are generally open every day from 10:00 to 22:00 hours. The star attraction is Madeira Shopping, the island's biggest mall, located in Santa Quiteria in the heights of Funchal. It's got no less than 83 stores, as well as 20 restaurants, coffee shops and snack bars, not to mention 7 cinema screens and the Microlandia entertainment centre with bowling, virtual reality games and mini-golf. Alternatively, there's the Arcadas de Sao Francisco, which is linked to the Madeira Wine Company, so you can kill two birds with one stone by taking a tour of the winery before doing your shopping. For a more authentic Madeiran shopping experience, there's the Municipal Market, where you'll find everything from tapestries and rugs to the island's trademark leather boots. In terms of more traditional items, best buys include exquisitely embroidered linen, from handkerchiefs to tablecloths. And don't forget the wickerwork - for the best selection visit Camacha, the island's wicker hub. Madeira's exotic flowers, such as orchids, birds of paradise and anthuriums, are also favourite souvenirs. And of course, you won't want to return home without one of those rich, succulent Madeira cakes – just perfect with a nice cup of tea!