Guide to Lisbon Coast

Beaches

Slip away from the city's crowds and enjoy a generous slice of Lisbon's coastline. Okay, so the beaches might not be exactly on your doorstep, but under an hour away from the buzz of the city are miles of coastline you'll be glad you made the effort. From Ericeira in the north to Carcavelos and Estoril west of Lisbon, every resort flaunts satin-soft sands. And they're all lapped by turquoise-green seas perfect for cooling off when the sun's beating down. Take Sintra for instance, once the summertime residence of Portuguese royalty. Nowadays, luxury hotels and first-rate restaurants sprinkle the shores, alongside superb champion golf courses and peaceful nature reserves. In Estoril, meanwhile, horseshoes of gold-dust sands spread between an elegant seafront and minty-green waters. Cascais' beaches take some beating, too. Its 'Marchioness' and 'Queen' beaches are robed in velvety sands and lined by black-and-white paved promenades that are every inch Riviera. And in Carcavelos and Ericeira, spectacular slivers of sands fringe the shores. Looping around a honey-hued bay, Ericeira has to be one of the dreamiest spots on the whole coast. The waters are fantastic too, with impressive rollers ideal for surfing and body boarding. It's the same story in Carcavelos. Look one way and a flurry of whitewashed cottages cascades down to the waterfront. Look the other and white-crested waves tumble onto pillow-soft sands. If you're looking for some sporting action, Guincho is world-renowned for surfing conditions to rival Australian coasts, not to mention its breathtaking sunsets. And for the more confident sunbather, secluded Meco is the place to catch some rays – you can get an all over tan minus those spaghetti strap marks…

Eating out

• As you'd expect, Lisbon's brilliant for gastronomes. There's a huge variety of places to eat – everything from starched napkin restaurants to cheery chequer-clothed cafes and cosy azulejo-tiled bars. Fish fanatics will love it here. Grilled tuna and sardines make regular appearances on the menus. In the seafood restaurants lining Lisbon's Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, the fish is so fresh it's as if it's gone from net to plate in one fell swoop. In quirky Bairro Alto, meanwhile, you'll find restaurants that cut across culinary divides, and the Alfama district will give you a flavour of traditional fado music that drifts from its quaint eateries. Outside of the capital, you'll find the best fish restaurants in Estoril, Ericeira and Cascais. Get cracking on everything from fresh lobster and espada to plump prawns, sardines and razor clams cooked on the barbie. The all-time favourite is 'bacalhau' – salted, dried cod layered with potatoes, onions, olives and hard-boiled eggs. Or dive into a 'cataplana' – a seafood stew made in clam-like 'cataplana' pans. Meat dishes are good here, too. Try 'frango a piri piri', hot'n'spicy barbecued chicken with chilli, or 'leitao assado' – roasted suckling pig with crispy crackling. And don't forget the puddings. Cue fancy fruit flans and Portugal's most famous sweet-toothed treat, 'pasteis de nata' - cinnamon-sprinkled custard tarts. Plate by plate, it's all tasty. And even more so accompanied by Portuguese wines. Sip on sparkling 'vinho verde' with fish and seafood. Or couple up country fare with a gutsy 'Dao' red. One last thing, the Portuguese work to a Mediterranean timetable when it comes to eating. Breakfast is mid-morning and stretches to little more than a pastry and cup of caffeine-filled 'bica' – strong Portuguese espresso that'll keep you wide-eyed until evening. The afternoon siesta pushes a substantial lunch into the early afternoon. And early-birds take note - dinner is never before 9pm, with most restaurants staying open long past midnight for those looking for a late bite.
  
  
• Tavares, Lisbon If you want to splash out on a super-special meal, Tavares could well be the place to do it. Opened in 1784, it's Lisbon's oldest restaurant and its luxurious interior matches its first-class food. A true Lisbon experience.
  
  
• Picanha, Lisbon – Hungry carnivores will love this affable blue-tiled eatery. Specialising in grilled beef, the portions are so big you won't want to eat again for days. It's a local favourite.
  
  
• Bota Alto, Lisbon – Hearty homemade sausages, 'bacalhau' in bubbling cream and jugs of wine come thick and fast at Bairro Alto's oldest and buzziest haunt. Don't expect privacy though – its sardine-can stuff.
  
  
• Casa Velha, Cascais – A legend in Cascais, this pretty, white-painted restaurant rustles up awesome fresh fish and seafood from the nearby fish market. Make sure you book – it packs in the punters.
  
  
• Furnas, Ericeira – Fill up on simply-cooked fish at this no-frills restaurant perched on Ericeira's rocks. The sea air provides all the salty seasoning you'll need.

Nightlife

• In recent years, Lisbon has fast moved up the list to become one of Europe's trendiest cities. Now a firm favourite with the international DJ set, it definitely takes its nightlife seriously. The streets of bohemian Bairro Alto act as the centre of the city's bar scene. Here, seductive 'fado' and lilting salsa beats spill from bars burrowed into lantern-decorated lanes. Come midnight, follow everyone down to the trendy Alcantara docks. Clink glasses with the fashionable crowd – it's packed with hip bars and chic restaurants. What's more it's the city's clubbing hub and is alive with multi-floored superclubs pumping out everything from head-splitting techno to house and reggae. If clubbing isn't your scene, Lisbon still has plenty to offer. Indulge yourself in some classical music at the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation. Fall in love with an opera at Sao Carlos theatre. Or try your luck at the city's casino. You won't find yourself short of something to do.
  
  Outside of the city, the Lisbon Coast's got something for everyone after dark – it really is a case of eeny-meeny-miny mo. For quiet nights, Sintra's your best bet. Here, the pace settles into a slow groove come sundown. Alfresco restaurants lay their tables in pretty plazas. The first ripples of 'fado' melt down cobbled passages. And after dinner, people flit between the tiny bodegas and bars in the sidestreets before wending their way home. In Carcavelos, meanwhile, most people head for the seafront, meeting in the open-air restaurants. In Estoril it's more about glitz and glamour. Flash your cash in the legendary Estoril Casino, where cabarets and cocktail lounges beckon you from the baize, or shell out in a five-star restaurant overlooking the sands. Rounding things off is Cascais which likes to turn up the heat a bit more. Cue buzzing restaurants, music bars and plenty of wild clubs to keep you dancing till daybreak. The main hotspot here is Largo Luiz de Cameos Square – it's pulsing with pubs, waterholes and dancespots. Nightlife and the Lisbon Coast? One and the same thing.
  
  
• Club Lux, Lisbon Partly owned by Hollywood actor John Malkovich, Lux is the trendiest club in town. You could even find yourself rubbing shoulders with the stars – Cameron Diaz and Prince have both partied the night away here.
  
• Hot Clube, Lisbon As Lisbon's oldest jazz club, this venue has a reputation for serving up only the highest standard of classic jazz. Snap your fingers and tap your feet in authentic surroundings.
  
• Op Art, Lisbon The most popular bar in the Alcantara docks by far, its great location gives perfect views of the sunrise as you dance the morning away. It's open 'til 6am at weekends.
  
• Estoril Casino, Estoril – Gaming tables. Cabarets. And slots galore. This classic casino inspired Ian Fleming's first Bond book, 'Casino Royale', so it's a must. The stakes are pretty low too, so you won't need to risk the family silver to enjoy it.
  
  
• Adegas das Caves, Sintra – This sweet sidestreet eaterie morphs into a friendly disco bar and cosy bodega on Friday and Saturday nights. Sip some wine and bop to pop, Sintra style.

Shopping

For heavy-duty shopping, Lisbon's the winner by far. The Baixa is the traditional shopping district in Lisbon. Spilling on to its streets are Art Nouveau storefronts selling everything from cheap leather to herbal remedies. Put your purse on high-spend alert and strut around the elegant Chiado area. Its chic boulevards have got so many big-name designer houses they're like high fashion catwalks. Forward-thinking fashionistas will be in their element in the hilltop quarter of Bairro Alto, where some of Portugal's most irreverent young designers show off their talents in funky boutiques. But, of course, if you're looking to splash some serious cash, you can still do that here. Lisbon's answer to the Champs Elysees – Liberty Avenue – is at the heart of the city. Dripping with designer stores and only the chicest of boutiques, it's a credit card's dream. Don't miss Lisbon's famous markets, either. Ferret for bargains in Alfama's Feira da Ladra flea market on Tuesdays and Saturdays. It's so big it would make Portobello Road jealous. Or hit the Ribeira. This fabulous food and fish market bursts with so many colours, aromas and fresh goodies, it'll blow you away. Away from the capital, it's all about street markets and touristy shops. In Estoril, Carcavelos and Ericeira, beachfront stores sell essentials like sun cream and T-shirts. Cascais boasts a wider range of shops. The best spot is Rua da Raita. This pedestrianised street bristles with places peddling Portugal's pretty blue-and-white 'azulejo' tiles, embroidered linen and colourful woven baskets. Step up the fashion factor at the Cascais Shopping Centre. Choc-a-bloc with big-brand chains, it's a shopping splurge waiting to happen. Elsewhere, Sintra's a dream for sorting that souvenir list. All the quintessential Portuguese gifts are right on tap. Expect bright ceramic cockerels, unglazed 'barro' pots and hand-painted tiles. And naturally, piles of shiny 'cataplanas' – the domed copper pans used for making stew. Oh, and don't miss Sintra's Sao Pedro Fair, every second Sunday. It's a whirl of country stalls that draws visitors from miles around.