Guide to Algarve

Beaches

Golden sands are what the Algarve does best. And there are certainly plenty to choose from. Like the idea of hiring a windsurfer and pulling up a chair at a beach bar for lunch? Then you might choose somewhere like Praia d'Oura near Albufeira. We're talking five kilometres of sand where there's always plenty of action. If you prefer a quieter, more laid-back scene, follow the coast east for a few kilometres to discover the vast, uncrowded sands of Praia da Falesia where there's as much peace and quiet as you can soak up in a day. In the east of the Algarve, the beaches are great dune-backed swathes of sand, often floating on offshore islands and reached by boat from resorts like Tavira and Olhao. This is the sort of place where you can leave the world behind for the day. As you travel west, the coastline rears up into those dramatic cliffs and great slabs of rock which you'll have seen in many a holiday brochure. Here, it's all sandstone carved into tunnels, arches and fantasy shapes – the coastline is bored out by the wind and sea and cut with gorgeous half moon bays and golden slivers of sand. Check out the coves at Praia Dona Ana in Lagos and you'll see what we mean. Just near here you'll find Meia Praia. It's the Algarve's longest beach and has been spared too much development, so you're sure to find a peaceful spot to make your own. Whichever beach you pitch up on, it's unlikely to disappoint – there are stunners all the way along the Algarve's 200 kilometres of coastline.

Eating out

• One thing's for sure, there's plenty of this in the Algarve! And there's plenty of choice too. Local recipes are wholesome and hearty, and made from fresh produce which tastes as if it has been grown in the next field. But you don't have to eat local all the time – there's no shortage of cheap and cheerful holiday food too. If the kids want pizza, then pizza they can have. But if you do want to go native, you've got a lot to choose from. Grilled sardines – that's where we'll start. For you'll come across them crisping saltily over the charcoal at most everyday restaurants. Eat them with plump tomatoes and crisp salad and wipe up the juices with bread. Delicious. With a coastline like this it's no surprise that fish is on every menu, and it's all ocean fresh. You can often choose straight from the tank, and then wait for it to sizzle over the coals, but remember that it's charged by the weight, so don't get your fingers burnt. Fishy dishes include 'cataplana', a tasty stew sizzling in a heavy metal pot. Also 'arroz de marisco' – the Portuguese version of paella - and 'caldeirada' which is a tempting fish soup. Carnivores will come across spicy piri-piri chicken as well as hearty meat stews. Visit a rural restaurant for local dishes such as rabbit in red wine – the secret is often in the local herbs grown around the village. Save some room though for puddings. The Moors have played their part in devising wickedly sugary cakes and crumbly custard tarts. Try 'arroz doce' – a lemon and cinnamon flavoured rice pudding. When it comes to choosing your wine, this is one place where you can order house wine and enjoy both the drink and the price. For Portuguese wines are really very good. If you fancy something lighter, there's always 'vinho verde' which has a slight sparkle and less alcohol than most wines.
  
  
• Vila Joia, Praia da Gale This is the only Michelin 2 star restaurant in the Algarve, so book early, especially as the sea views are to die for.
  
  
• Fortaleza da Luz, Praia da Luz Sit on the terrace of this 16th century fortress and dine al fresco on fresh fish and Portuguese specialities.
  
  
• Tres Palmeiras, Praia d'Oura A restaurant with a wide-ranging menu well liked by the Portuguese. Try the monkfish kebabs and arrive early if you don't want to queue.
  
  
• Beira Rio, Tavira A riverside restaurant near the old bridge. Dine at shady tree shaped tables on everything from pizza and pasta to vegetarian specials and garlic-flavoured quail.

Nightlife

• Holiday evenings are often one of the things we look forward to the most. But of course everyone has their own idea as to what makes a great night out. Dancing night owls will find clubs in all the larger resorts, but especially along the strip near Albufeira, which is lined with bars, discos and pubs. Praia da Rocha throbs with life too when the sun goes down, and you'll find somewhere to dress up and let your hair down in most of the larger resorts. If you prefer a cocktail and a spot of jazz to go with your sunset, then you can find that too. Look out for a local 'fado' evening – uniquely Portuguese, you can listen to nostalgic love songs accompanied by traditional guitars. However if what you most look forward to is the chance to enjoy a balmy meal under the stars to go with some good conversation, then any number of beachside restaurants will offer you just that.
  
  
• Kiss, Albufeira Young, happening and loud, this is one of the Algarve's most well known clubs – watch out for theme nights and celebrity DJs.
  
  
• Capicua, Praia da Rocha If you're looking for something a notch up on the sophistication scale, this is the place to come. Plays house and hip-hop, with visiting DJs.
  
  
• Joe's Garage, Lagos The dance floor here is packed with locals and holidaymakers. There's Mexican food and the bar hosts BBQs and beach parties.
  
  
• Bizzaros, Albufeira For smooth jazz and funky Brazilian music accompanied by cocktails and sunsets, give this one a whirl.
  
  
• Hotel Delphin, Alvor One of the many hotels where you can catch a weekly fado show.

Shopping

There's plenty to snap up on the Algarve. Take the local pottery, for example. Rustic and colourful, it's the type of thing you will find yourself using every day back home. The shops in resorts stock all sorts of ceramics, but it's much more interesting to visit the original potteries which are scattered along many of the main holiday routes. Leather is another great buy. There's always scope for another belt or pair of shoes in the wardrobe, and you'll find the leather here is great value and a change from high street styles. Also look out for cheap, local knitwear – Monchique is the best hunting ground but you'll find plenty in local markets too. If you're the type that likes every souvenir to tell a story, make a trip to Loule. For this is the centre of the handicraft industry, and you can watch artisans at work in the streets around the market – Rua da Barbaca has the most workshops. Take home copperware, wrought iron, clogs and candles with stories of where and how they were made. If you have enough clutter at home and are determined to buy consumable souvenirs, you can't beat a bottle of the local wine – the vineyards around Lagoa and Lagos are considered the best in the Algarve.