Guide to Alcantarilha

'An unspoilt Moorish village of narrow streets and whitewashed houses, sleepy Acantarilha whisks you back to a more peaceful Portugal.'

Check the calendar when you come here to make sure you're still in the 21st century. You are, but there's just a chance that Alcantarilha is still residing somewhere in the middle ages. Sitting inland between Silves and the beaches west of Albufeira, this archetypal Moorish village is brilliant for a get-away-from-it-all holiday. Perched on a small hill, its narrow backstreets and terracotta-tiled cottages coil up to a whitewashed church. Spending time here is a bit like living in a time capsule. The pace is restfully old-fashioned. In the still of morning, old men amble between the cafes as if in slow motion. Women stand chattering on doorsteps. And the few visitors who discover this place soak up its sleepy charm over drinks at its rustic restaurants. But this place isn't just about out-of-the-way charms. Alcantarilha has one big attraction – its Chapel of Bones. Next to one of its churches, this atmospheric place features a wall inlaid with 1,500 human skulls – it's one soul stirring sight. One of Alcantarilha's other perks is that you're never far from some mainstream tourist attractions. When you and the kids fancy some fun, the Zoomarine park at Guia, with its dolphin shows, lies close by. Alternatively, head for the sandy bays in and around bustling Armacao De Pera when you crave a day's sunlounging. Or make another kind of escape – into the cool, scented eucalyptus forests of the Monchique mountains to thrill at the stunning views.

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