Guide to Petrovac

'With quiet beaches and gorgeous countryside, off-the-tourist-trail Petrovac is a sanctuary of calm.'

Jacques Cousteau once said the part of the Adriatic coast belonging to Montenegro is the purest part of the Med. He was spot on, of course, and nowhere along these shores is prettier than Petrovac. If you love beach holidays but hate the crowds, this little town is the answer. Edging south from the Riviera's busier resorts, the focus here is firmly on relaxation. Think stretches of relatively footprint-free sands, beachfront eateries serving authentic food, and a slow pace of life that's infectious. Watched over by the old fortress of Kastel, the town frames a horseshoe-shaped bay backed by emerald hills. The star beaches along the coast here include Perazica Do, Lucice, Sveta Nedjelja and Buljarice, all of which rank among Montenegro's finest. Also a big hit with the diving crowd are the offshore islands of Kati and St. Nedjelja. Away from the sands, treading the town's quaint streets is a great way to soak up the culture. Granted, it's not a hive of activity, but you'll find friendly little cafes and shops tucked among the clutch of terracotta-tiled buildings. And on the food front, there's a handful of tempting restaurants and pizzerias. Nature is another huge draw here. The surrounding hills and countryside make great walking terrain. Just pack a picnic and follow the trails.

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