'A century and a half of British rule has left a few reminders of home. But look beyond those lipstick-red post boxes and you'll find go-slow Gozo has an identity all of its own.'
'Pomskizillious' and 'gromphibberous'. That's the tongue-twisting description of Gozo offered up by poet Edward Lear. The eccentric Brit thought the English language fell short when helping him describe the island's magnificence, so he invented a couple of his own. And you'll soon understand his predicament. Just 25 minutes from Malta, Gozo's got the kind of scenery that'd leave even the most eloquent onlooker lost for words. It's all wild, untamed beaches. Cliffs with rugged good looks. And luminous swirls of turquoise that curve off into oblivion. On top of that, the waters hide a labyrinth of caves and lagoons that divers in the know can't get enough of. But there's more to Gozo than a five star coastline. For years it was simply known as the little smudge next to Malta. But lately it's shuffled out of the shadows to command a lot more respect from the travel world. More and more people are switching off their mobiles, shutting down their laptops and heading for a traditional hideaway where they can reboot in peace. Even the main hub, Victoria, is peaceful enough to make a monk feel at home, with pursuits falling very much into the simple pleasures category. Get tangled up in the snoozing web of backstreets, pausing every so often for a pavement-cafe pastry fix. And head up to the rooftop citadel, which serves up views that don't so much stir the soul as whisk it into a froth of contentment. Victoria aside, there are a few other boxes to tick while you're here. See the world's oldest buildings AKA the Ggantija Temples. Peer through the limestone arch known as the Azure Window. And make sure you see Calypso Cave of Ulysses fame. Just make sure you pack every fashionista's worst nightmare – comfy shoes – because Gozo is made for walking. Pick a path through fields painted with wild flowers. Whichever direction you take, you'll trip over old farmhouses and dinky churches whose bells chime through the silence. And remember, if you find yourself lost for words in those postcards home, Mr Lear has a couple of suggestions that sum it up perfectly.
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Gozo holiday resorts
Resorts in Gozo include Gharb, Gozo, Kercem, Sannat and St Lawrenz.
More Malta holiday destinations
Looking for holidays in Malta? Our Malta holiday destinations include Gozo and Malta.
Beaches
Take the tape measure to Gozo and you'll see it's small, just nine miles by four in fact – which means you can drive from north to south in half an hour. When you're planning your route, the name that'll leap out at you time and again is Ramla Bay in the north. Not only does it lead the pack size-wise, but it scores highly in the looks department, too, hence why it regularly ranks as one of the Med's best beaches. The golden sands have a red-ish hue to them, which looks incredible against the backdrop of velvety-green countryside. And diamond-clear seas complete the picture. Talking of the water, it's nice and shallow, making it a hit with families. Not far behind Ramla in the popularity stakes is the beach at nearby Marsalforn, Gozo's premier tourist spot. Things start off pretty pebbly but the further along you go, the more barefoot-friendly it gets. And if you feel like parting ways with your sunbed for an afternoon, head over to the marina – it's a good starting point for island boat trips. If diving brings you here though – Gozo has some of the best scuba spots in the Mediterranean - try fun-loving Xlendi in the south. The beach doesn't take up too much room but there's a great vibe to the bay that makes it popular with day-trippers from Malta. Another good spot on the diver's map is Hondoq Bay over to the east, which caters well for beginners. The most popular of them all though is Dwejra. With its wacky rock formations and bright blue waters, it's the natural beauty of Gozo. Swim, snorkel and dive your way around the giant arch called the Azure Window and see the tiny limestone isle known as Fungus Rock. This is also where you'll find the most popular dive site on the island – the Blue Hole. People aren't the only ones who love it at Dwejra – rare birds do, too, so look out for their nests that polka-dot the cliffs.
Eating out
Eating like a local is a piece of cake in Gozo. Well, maybe more a piece of peppered goat's cheese. 'Gbejniet' cheese is a speciality here, after all. The island hasn't let time strip it of its traditions, which means most residents still make a living from farming and fishing. Apart from Gozo's sandy yellow villages, every inch of land is devoted to crops. Figs. Peppers. Pumpkins. Tangerines. Melons. Pumpkins. Grapes. You name it, they grow it. In fact, the island's best described as a giant grocery store – which, for you, means a dining scene that knows a thing or two about fresh produce. Turn your attention from land to water, meanwhile, and you'll see the island's waters glisten with all the temptation of an over-stocked ice-box. Every day, boats putt-putt into harbours, weighed down with the day's catch. 'Lampuki' is one of the favourites, a type of catfish best eaten with spinach, cauliflower, sultanas and chestnuts in a crumbly shortcrust pastry. Other net-fresh spoils include swordfish, squid and giant prawns. If that doesn't get your mouth watering, look out for 'fenkata', a rabbit and potato stew swimming in a wine and tomato sauce. Talking of tomato sauce, one glance at a typical menu will tell you the island's borrowed a recipe book or two from Italy. Pasta is everywhere, not to mention nibbles like sun-ripened olives, capers and cured meat. If you can't resist a decent wedge of pizza, order 'gozitan ftajjar'. It's like a rustic wood-fired pizza bread, great with cheese. On the subject of cheese, you can't go home without trying the aforementioned 'gbejniet', a white, slightly sour goat's cheese. It comes every way imaginable – pickled, peppered, dried or fresh. It even comes in the popular widow's soup along with enough veggie goodness to make 5-a-day look like a bad diet. Desserts crammed with ricotta, figs and thyme honey round things off in a sweet shower of calories. As for where to pull up a chair, Victoria and Marsalforn have a good selection of restaurants. Another favourite spot is Xlendi, where some great places to eat stud the little promenade. If you're feeling adventurous, try the inland villages for a hearty meal with the locals.
Nightlife
Gozo is consistent - the nights here are every bit as mellow as the days. Bars and cafes are easy enough to find, just don't expect them to be pumping out hard beats and serving happy hour cocktails. The pace here is positively tortoise-like. Victoria's central square – It-Tokk or 'the meeting place' – is gilded with some great pavement cafes. Watch the world wander by over a pitcher of ice-cold Maltese lager. Not far away is Xaghra's buzzy town square, Pjazza Vittorja, where you can lose time in its wine bars on warm moonlit nights. Elsewhere, the quiet waterfront bars of Marsalforn and Xlendi are well worth a drink or three. Aim to finish up there after an evening stroll along their winding promenades. If you think a holiday's not complete without one or two big nights out, Victoria's got a couple of discos. And if you're coming here in summer, don't miss La Grotta, on the road between Victoria and Xlendi. It unfolds inside a huge natural cave, a setting which has earned it the grandiose tag 'the most beautiful disco in the world'.
Shopping
The old artisan traditions are very much alive and kicking in Gozo. Pretty much any village you call in at, you'll find locals concentrating hard on their latest masterpiece. Among the items on the take-home list are baskets, glass and silver filigree jewellery. Lace is another favourite, with the village of Sannat, just south of Victoria, specialising in handmade doilies, shawls and tablecloths. Of course, the closest you'll get to a shopping spree is in the capital itself. Stretching from east to west, Republic Street - or Triq Ir-Repubblika - is where most of the shops cluster. The citadel keeps up the craft theme, with a string of hidey-hole shops beckoning you in for a browse. For a more serious spend though, head for the Cittadella Centre. It's a shopping mall with stores well-stocked in perfume, clothes, leather and ceramics. If you prefer the buzz of a market, make your way to the main square – It-Tokk – where a miniature circus bursts into life every morning. It's a good place to stock up on picnic essentials – cheese, bread, olives, and fish. Plus a container or two of the cheap but good local plonk.
Transfer time
Transfers to and from Gozo will be by coach or minibus and ferry.
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