Guide to Colle San Paolo

"Close to enchanting walled villages and placid Lake Trasimeno, this hilly hamlet will take walkers and sightseers into a dream world of wonderful history and country landscapes."

Nestled beneath wooded mountains south of Lake Trasimeno, you can wave 'arrivederci' to those everyday stresses in Colle San Paolo. So small it's hardly noticeable even to passing drivers and ramblers, this tiny settlement is so untainted by the 21st century it's hard to believe. Here, the undulating slopes of western Umbria seem to stretch forever, drawing you into a timeless world of antique olive groves, empty wheat fields and silent stone villages. Aside from basking in the spectacular panoramas, there's little else to do but bury yourself in a book, unwind by the pool or surrender to the scenery. Jump in the car and picnic beside scenic olive groves and perfectly preserved red-stone hamlets. Or give in to the lure of Lake Trasimeno. This expanse of calm, shimmering water is a haven for birds like kingfishers and heron and a protected fishing ground. Stroll around its tranquil shores. Hop on a ferry to its pretty islands. Dine in rustic ristorantes serving the delicately flavoured eels and other freshwater fish that flourish in its waters. For man-made attractions, head for the neighbouring villages of Citta del Pieve and Panicale. The churches of these picturebook walled towns host glorious paintings and frescoes by the area's favourite son, the great Renaissance painter Perugino. Staring at them is like taking an instant dose of the region's rich artistic and cultural heritage. Still on the Perugino trail, dedicate a day to beautiful Perugia to witness more of his great works and the town's fairytale architecture and piazzas. If Umbria has a heart – which it most definitely has – this is where it beats.

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