Guide to Sicily

Beaches

Sicily's coastline is as varied as the rest of the island. There's everything from sweeping sandy beaches to hidden coves, with lots of places for good, safe swimming and fun watersports. On the east coast, the beaches are busier and better equipped, with plentiful sun loungers, snack bars and watersports facilities. The most popular, and most photographed, is probably Mazzaro, which serves as the seaside playground for the historic town of Taormina. If you're a strong swimmer, you can pay a visit to the rocky islet, Isola Bella, just off shore. Other particularly good beaches in the area are Letojanni, a very romantic setting particularly at sunset, and Giardini-Naxos, which has been attracting sunseekers since the Greeks first landed there in 750BC. Alternatively, head for the north coast and you'll find some lovely, and generally less crowded, stretches of sand. Cefalu is the prime candidate for picture postcard immortalisation, a sweeping crescent of sand overlooked by a gorgeous-looking town and the soaring peak of the Rocca, a towering bluff which was once a refuge for locals from marauding pirates. A few miles further west is Mondello, the lido for Sicily's capital, Palermo, and as you go even further west, you find yourself in an area largely undiscovered by visitors from outside Italy. If you don't speak Italian you may have to rely on sign language, but you'll be rewarded with some of the island's most unspoilt beaches, beautiful coastal scenery, fascinating wildlife and a pace of life that's decidedly tortoise-like.

Eating out

• If you love Italian food, you'll find all your favourites in Sicily, including pasta in all the usual shapes and sizes and pizza with a wide array of toppings. At the same time, you'll have a chance to try some typically Sicilian dishes, which mix traditional Italian cuisine with the flavours of North Africa and Greece, bequeathed to the island by former colonists. The widespread use of aubergine, olives, pine nuts, anchovies and capers is a legacy of Arab rule, while the Greeks exploited Sicily's abundant fish stocks to great effect. With fish and seafood almost jumping out of the Mediterranean waters straight onto the plate, along with fresh produce like lemons, oranges, avocados and almonds, it's no wonder that the cuisine of Sicily has proved an inspiration to chefs across the globe. Local specialities of the sea include 'zuppe di cozze' - a dish of steamed mussels in tasty sauce, grilled swordfish or tuna flavoured with lemon, olive oil and oregano - and 'sarde a beccafico' - a tastebud tingling dish of baked sardines stuffed with breadcrumbs, pine nuts, sugar and lemon juice. In the meat department, veal is the staple, often breaded, pan fried or grilled and served with a vegetable medley of aubergines, tomatoes and peppers. When it comes to desserts, you'd better leave your calorie counter at home. A gift from the Arabs is 'cassata', a delightfully decadent ice cream or ricotta cheese cake with almond paste and candied fruit. Then, of course, there's the ultimate sugar hit, 'cannoli', furled tubes of pastry-cum-biscuit oozing with ricotta, chocolate shavings and candied fruit. Alternatively, if you prefer something less creamy and more tangy, try a 'granita', Sicily's famous sorbet, usually sharpened up with lemon. No time to sit down in a cafe or trattoria? There are equally tasty treats to be had if you're on the move. On just about every street corner you'll find an ice cream parlour with a kaleidoscope of flavours on offer. And if you make it to Palermo, you must try a 'panelle', a fried chickpea pattie served in a bread roll, usually bought from a street stall – it's the Sicilian answer to a Big Mac. When it comes to drinks, Sicily produces a variety of very drinkable red and white table wines, as well as the world famous fortified dessert wine, Marsala. The usual range of Italian beers, like Peroni, is also available, or for a refreshing soft drink try a fresh orange juice or an iced tea. If you're ordering coffee, remember to specify whether you want espresso - a small shot of caffeine rich java - cappuccino - milky and frothy - or Americano -traditional filter variety.
  
  
• La Siciliana, Catania Centrally located on the busy Viale Marco Polo just north of the old part of town, this typical Sicilian trattoria has a pleasant, traditionally furnished interior and a garden for al fresco dining.
  
  
• Lo Scoglio Ubriaco, Cefalu This is just one of many fine ristorante-pizzerias in Cefalu serving good quality fare at surprisingly reasonable prices. The added bonus here is the amazing view from the terrace over the blue waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
  
  
• Pizzeria Bellini, Palermo This is one of the few places in Palermo where you can eat outdoors. It's a traditional family run establishment which is very popular with the locals, so it's wise to book a table or get there early.
  
  
• Granduca, Taormina This elegant eatery is housed in a 15th century palazzo and is generally reckoned to be one of the best restaurants in Taormina. Sicilian specialities and pizzas are accompanied by a splendid view over the Greek amphitheatre.
  
  
• Jonico-a Rutta 'e Ciauli, Siracusa Looking for a slice of authentic Sicilian cuisine? This is the place for you. The menu offers traditional pasta, meat and seafood dishes which are not cheap, but worth every penny. Try and get a table on the terrace, from which there's a wonderful view over the sea and the rugged coastline.

Nightlife

• Generally speaking, the Sicilians are not what you'd call party animals, but there's enough nightlife in the major resorts to keep everyone but the most ardent clubbers satisfied. Where you'd expect there to be plenty of after dark action - the capital Palermo – in fact there isn't. Apart from cultural pursuits like opera, theatre or concerts, the night-time entertainment there is mainly based around pavement cafes and bars, where locals gather to unwind with a glass of wine or a coffee and chat for Italy. On the other hand, most of the bigger seaside towns like Taormina, Catania, Siracusa and Cefalu have music bars, discos or clubs which open into the early hours. If you're looking for a more traditional form of entertainment, it's worth checking out one of Sicily's puppet theatres, sadly now fewer and further between than they were some years ago. Popular since the 14th century, their moralistic tales usually tell the story of medieval derring-do and chivalry, with a favourite being the legend of Charlemagne and his battle with the Saracens. What's more, you don't have to worry about language difficulties. It's pretty easy to follow the story, even if you don't have more than a few words of Italian. If you're into films in a big way, you'll have something in common with the Italians, whose love of the big screen is legendary and epitomised in the famous Sicilian-set classic 'Cinema Paradiso'. Most of the bigger towns have cinemas, but you may have difficulty finding one that shows English or American titles in their original language. Unfortunately, the norm is to dub not subtitle. If you get a chance, drop in to the majestic Cinema Impero in Marsala, if only to admire the decor. It's an extravagant Art Deco monument to movies and Mussolini, recently restored to its former glory.
  
  
• Club Septimo, Taormina With an interior dance floor flashing with lasers and lights, as well as some highly attractive outdoor terraces, this relatively sophisticated nightspot plays disco hits every night into the early hours. There are occasional fashion shows and other live events.
  
  
• Bar Morgana, Taormina This lively, trendy establishment is tucked away down one of the alleyways off Corso Umberto I. It's popular with both locals and tourists, probably because the atmosphere's good and the drinks reasonably priced.
  
  
• Dome Club, Catania This is one of Catania's more happening places, with all the latest sounds spun by local and visiting DJs. It's also got all the latest hi-tech equipment, including light and laser shows.
  
  
• American Bar, Grande Albergo Sole, Palermo If you fancy a cocktail and a great view of the city, the roof top bar of this historic hotel will oblige. It's a particularly good place to go for a sundowner.
  
  
• Vecchio Pub, Siracusa If you're feeling a little homesick, pop in to this British-style watering hole in the centre of Siracusa, open until 2am every day. There's a courtyard garden at the rear for all fresco drinking and eating.

Shopping

The Italians love to shop. And it shows. Sicily has every kind of retail experience, from the designer boutiques of Palermo, Catania and Taormina to the tiny artisan emporia of ancient towns like Erice and Enna. It almost goes without saying that clothes are the number one indulgence for the ever fashion-conscious Italians - apart, perhaps, from sunglasses and a pair of killer heels. You won't find many bargains in the high street stores, but what you do try on and inevitably fall in love with will usually be of very good quality and immaculately tailored, justifying its high price tag. Where you will find cheaper goods is on the market stalls that line the streets of most of Sicily's bigger towns, cities and beach resorts – everything from leather belts to flip flops at knock-down prices. On certain days of the week, the choice is augmented with succulent fresh fruit and vegetables that you'll recognise, but that always seem to be bigger than we ever see in the UK. Alternatively, if you're looking for a more unusual and typically Sicilian souvenir, there are plenty of options. As in most parts of Italy, cottage industry craftsmanship is alive and well in Sicily, with best buys including ceramics, carpets, lace and silk haberdashery and, on the east coast, items made from Etna lava, some of which an be surprisingly pretty. Coral used to be one of Sicily's big exports, but was over-used in the 19th century and stocks depleted. Nevertheless, the persistent Sicilians continue to make attractive jewellery with coral imported from the Bay of Naples. If you're a shopaholic, be prepared to go cold turkey in the afternoons. Most places in Sicily religiously observe the siesta, with shops opening at 9am, but shutting from 1pm for three or even four hours. Evening closing time is usually around 7.30 to 8pm.