Guide to Porto Rafael

'With its sleepy piazzetta and unhurried pace, pretty Porto Rafael offers true peace and relaxation.'

Porto Rafael is something of a rarity in north-eastern Sardinia – a bit of a hideaway. Small and compact, yet still with the must-have marina, it's a pretty, whitewashed hamlet located in a bay where Nelson anchored the Victory two centuries ago. Today, the White chapel forms the heart of Porto Rafael which, like then, still operates at an unrushed pace, even in high summer.
Daily life focuses on a sleepy piazzetta where the chairs and tables of chic cafes overflow into shady courtyards and out into the sun. Arty shops and bars nestle in the pedestrianised streets, but generally, the atmosphere is distinctly tranquil. At night things stay low-key, although in high season, the restaurants fill up and a couple of dance spots open for business.
When it comes to beaches, you'll have a delicious choice. Porto Rafael's own sands sit close to the piazzetta, and are great for topping up your tan. Elsewhere, the coastline' riddled with tiny coves and bays blessed with crystal-clear waters and unbelievably soft sands.
If you're itching for some activity, golf, tennis, horse-riding and watersports centres are all at hand. For a trip out, nearby Cape d'Orso has the best of the area's wind-sculpted granite rock formations – a giant bear standing above the coastline. Or drive inland to witness the strange 'nuraghi' monuments unique to Sardinia. And don't miss the La Maddalena islands just offshore – ferries from nearby Palau will whisk you to these exquisite islets with their immaculate snow-white beaches.

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