Guide to The Mani

Beaches

Honey-coloured sand stretching as far as the eye can see. And long strips of pebbles kissed by luminous jade-turquoise sea. Beach lovers simply couldn't want for more from Preveza. Some of the finest beaches in the region can be found in and around Parga. Here, the pebble-sand beach comes complete with views over a pretty white-chapelled islet. Okay, it may get busy in summer, but you can always hotfoot it over the headland to Valtos. This crescent of sand is big, beautiful and brimming with tavernas, watersports and sunbeds. Want something even more peaceful? No worries. Just catch a water taxi to the secluded coves burrowed into the shores. Sandy or pebbly, they're perfect for escaping the bustle and burying yourself in a book. On Lefkas too, beaches beckon from almost every direction. Watersports fans will adore the 5-kilometre sandy stretch at Aghios Ioannis, where offshore breezes and sparkling seas make it a Mecca for wind and kite-surfers. Even if you're not the energetic sort, watching their antics from the sands is a great sideshow for your sunbathing sessions. Further south on the west coast, white-pebble coves and cliff-framed bays lie in wait for more intrepid beach-hunters. While over on the east coast, Periyali, Nikiana and Lazarata offer beautiful stony beaches within touching distance of waterfront tavernas. And let's not forget Meganissi. This heavenly little island is dotted with quiet pebble beaches like Ai Yiannis and Fanari, plus plenty of pocketsize rocky coves reached by donkey tracks. And every one comes with mirror-glass waters and stop-and-stare views over to the mainland and Lefkas.

Eating out

• The first thing you should know about food in Preveza is that's 99% Greek. Tavernas, 'kafeneia' – traditional cafes – and 'ouzeri' – simple snack bars – are the order of the day. From a visitor's point of view, we're talking about tucking into a banquet of local dishes. Picture drool-inducing 'moussakas'. Feta-topped Greek salads drizzled with olive oil. And vine-wrapped 'dolmades'. Not to mention pitta bread's best friends 'taramosolata' and 'hummous'. And that's nowhere near the whole list. Add sizzling 'souvlakis' – skewers of pork and lamb marinated in lemon juice and herbs. 'Saganaki' – oozey chunks of fried cheese. You'll also find local specialities thrown in, too. In Parga for instance, look out for 'bourtheto' - clusters of tiny fish baked and smothered in rich tomato sauce. Oh, and we should say that Parga's perhaps the only exception to the 'strictly Greek' rule. Its tourist credentials mean it's got loads of restaurants serving British and Italian dishes, as well as Greek. Cue full English breakfasts and pizzas galore. In Lefkas though, the 'keep things local' rule really sticks. In Lefkas Town and the small fishing villages, you'll find places specialising in all the classic Greek main courses. And taking things on a bit – don't forget to sample some of the country's famously sticky-sweet puddings. Get stuck into syrup-covered 'baklava' and Greek yoghurt drenched in honey. And on the drinks front, there's a great choice. On Lefkas, give the island's own 'Vertzamo' wines a whirl. Or give into some 'ouzo' – the strong, aniseed-flavoured local liqueur.
  
  
• O Regantos, Lefkas Town - This place has a lot going for it. A fab location just off the main square. Scrumptious char-grilled sardines. Fresh 'calamari' in a tasty wine sauce. And homemade wines perfect for drinking on the pergola-shaded terrace. No wonder it gets lots of plaudits.
  
  
• Oasis Taverna, Agia - Locals flock to this taverna in Agia near Parga for its amazing views and rustic recipes. Wrap your tastebuds around their traditional sausage dishes – you'll be invited into the kitchen to choose the meat they're made from – and don't be put off by the 10-minute cab or bus ride out of town.
  
  
• Perivoli, Parga – This simple taverna on the road to Lichnos turns out gigantic platters of lip-smacking 'meze' and moreish 'moussaka' along with a generous dollop of typically Greek hospitality.
  
  
• Flisvos, Parga - Don't miss this friendly eaterie tucked into Parga's castle-topped headland. Serving tasty Greek classics like juicy dolmades and spinach pie, its great-value prices and stupendous views over Valtos beach make it a winner.
  
  
• Rose Garden, Vathi, Meganissi - A favourite with Vathi's boating fraternity, this popular haunt has large alfresco terraces where you can tuck into freshly cooked Greek and Mediterranean dishes.

Nightlife

• Whether you're in the dance-till-you-drop brigade or belong to the drinks-and-dinner camp, Preveza's got somewhere to keep you happy. It just depends on which resort you plump for. For high-powered partying, there's no place but Parga. In high summer, its waterfront and old town simmer with grooving clubs and packed out bars perfect for largin' it 'til late. And even then, there's still plenty for those who prefer a slower pace. Almost everywhere you go, cosy tavernas and romantic bars offer up intimate suppers to the soundtrack of the sea. In contrast, Lefkas is definitely lower key. In Nikiana, Periyali, Aghios Ioannis and Lazarata, we're talking cheerful waterside tavernas where people gather to swap stories of their day over glasses of wine and platters of meze. Expect twinkling lights, blue-checked tablecloths and sometimes even the sweet strains of 'bouzouki' music. However, if you're hankering after a higher tempo, there's always Nidri or Lefkas Town. Just a few minutes' cab ride from Nikiana and Periyali, Nidri's harbourfront ripples with music bars and popular outdoor cafes – it even has a couple of discos. There's plenty going on in Lefkas Town, too. Park yourself at a popular main square taverna and you may just be entertained by strolling jugglers, 'bouzouki' troupes and even fire-eaters. Alternatively, hang out with the locals at the cocktail bars along the harbour before hitting the town's discos. Or why not do something completely different? If you're here in July and August, the capital has its own open-air cinema showing twice-nightly movies.
  
  
• Sail In Bar, Parga Nestling high in the old town, the Sail In attracts an up-for-it crowd with toga parties, potent cocktails and an outdoor terrace with fabulous views over Parga's lit-up waterfront.
  
  
• Camares Disco, Parga Slap bang on Parga's harbourfront, this strobe-lit nook is crowded with Brits in July and August. Burn a hole in the dancefloor to pop, techno and club anthems.
  
  
• Excess Club, Nidri, Lefkas Garage, rock and house tunes blare from this atmosphere-charged disco, although occasional Greek music draws the locals too. Great for raucous late-night revelling.
  
  
• Byblos Bar, Nidri, Lefkas A popular haunt for holidaying Brits, this jolly cocktail bar offers up lively happy hours between 5-10pm and fun-packed karaoke nights on top.
  
  
• Sail Inn, Nidri, Lefkas Pumping music. Glitzy decor. And a dancefloor opening out onto the beach. Nidri's best-known nightclub chucks them all into the mix to retain its status as the town's most happening spot.

Shopping

Parga's great for shopping. From the stepped streets of its warren-like old town to the narrow alleyways stuffed behind its waterfront, this is one place that'll definitely rev up your retail ramblings. Almost everywhere you turn, you'll stumble across jewellery shops selling Greek silver and look-at-me gold accessories. Beach boutiques bulging with bright sarongs, 'Parga' t-shirts and summery shorts. And forage-friendly gift shops groaning under soft leather bags, woodcarvings, and little trinkets. The deeper you dig, the more unusual the stuff gets – so if you're looking for something to cherish long after you've got home, trust your radar and head beyond the more touristy streets into the tucked-away nooks and niches. On Lefkas, the capital Lefkas Town is prime shopping territory. Here, pedestrianised streets fanning out from the main square tempt you into perfume shops, designer boutiques and quirky gift emporia. The usual souvenir suspects here include colourful ceramics and decorative lace scarves hand-made by islanders. And once your shopping urges are satiated, wend your way back to the central square to flop at a pavement cafe for a coffee and chat about your grab bag of goodies. Of course, Lefkas Town doesn't hold the total monopoly on shopping here. All over the island, the seaside and mountain villages are home to interesting curio stores, delis and roadside stalls choc-a-block with treats. How about some olive oil or thyme-infused honey from the village of Athani? Some embroidered linen from the mountain hamlet of Karia? Or a bottle of 'soumada', the rich almond liqueur? Just take your pick – they'll all be wonderful reminders of your holiday.