Guide to Skiathos

Beaches

If there's one thing that sets Skiathos apart from some of the other Greek islands, it has to be the beaches. There are around 60 to choose from, lots of them offering up some of the best and safest swimming conditions you'll find in Europe, as well as a good range of watersports. Those on the south coast are well sheltered by cliffs or high ground, making them sun traps too. A regular bus service which runs the length of the only main road gives you the opportunity to try one or all of them out. At the end of the road is the numero uno, Koukounaries, which has been called the best beach in the whole of Greece. It's a particularly eye-catching crescent-shaped sweep of soft, golden sand, fringed with palm trees, that looks like it might have been transported to Skiathos grain by grain from the Caribbean. Most of the beaches on the south coast have at least one snack bar, where you can grab an ice cool lemonade or beer as an antidote to the heat. On the north coast the beaches are much wilder and a lot less crowded. But they're also much more difficult to get to, many of them requiring a hike or a boat trip. By far the best is Lalaria, a picture-postcard example, set at the island's northernmost tip.

Eating out

• The main resorts in Skiathos serve up the typical mix of Greek and international dishes, with the staple favourites all readily available, including moussaka, souvlaki and keftedes on the Greek side, and pizza, pasta and steaks for more cosmopolitan tastes. Then, of course, there's the fresh fish and seafood, which is superb. Grilled swordfish, deep fried squid and big, juicy prawns pan-fried in garlic are just some of the more popular favourites. For more adventurous fare, and indeed a wider selection of fast food, head for Skiathos Town. There's everything there, from family-run establishments to burger bars. The restaurants around the old harbour offer excellent fish and seafood along with nice views, twinkling lights and a good atmosphere. The best ones are at the western end of the little port, appropriately right next to the fish market – you can't get much fresher than that! There are also a few traditional tavernas hidden away in the winding alleyways of the old part of town, draped with bougainvillea and steeped in charm. Tempting treats such as baklava, kataife and loukoumadhes will be manna from heaven to those with a sweet tooth. As for what to drink with your meal, Skiathos produces its own wines, one of the dry whites working well with a seared tuna steak or grilled sea bass. As for an aperitif, as you're in Greece it has to be ouzo, and after your meal you can aid your digestion with a smooth, 7-star Metaxa brandy.
  
  
• Roda Tavern, Skiathos Town Family-run and thoroughly traditional, this charming little taverna is right in the centre of Skiathos Town. The menu is all Greek, featuring excellent fish, seafood and grilled meats.
  
  
• Syraino, Skiathos Town If you fancy a change from moussaka and keftedes, this Italian restaurant is a good choice, if only for the lovely view over the harbour.
  
  
• Windmill, Skiathos Town As its name suggests, this restaurant is in a converted windmill, which stands high up above the new harbour with great views from the terrace. It's run by an British couple and the food is international.
  
  
• The Village, Koukounaries Overlooking Lake Strofilia, this busy, bustling restaurant has a large covered terrace. The menu offers good value fare, ranging form Greek specialities to pizza and pasta.
  
  
• Agnantio Taverna, Vigles On the road to Evangelistrias, this welcoming taverna is run by the Giannitsis family, who have been in the restaurant business in Skiathos since the 1970s. Good value Greek fare and a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere.

Nightlife

• If you're staying in one of the beach resorts on the south coast of Skiathos, you'll find the nightlife fairly limited. It'll probably be a case of a meal and a few drinks in a local bar, or perhaps a poolside barbecue at your hotel. For nightlife proper you'll need to hop on the bus or take a taxi to Skiathos Town. There the after-dark scene is a lot more in your face, with a swarm of buzzing music bars and clubs pulsating into the early hours. Start the evening with a drink or two in one of the waterfront bars along the harbour, where you can watch colourful little fishing boats arriving back with the catch of the day. Some of the more trendy ones have cushions on the street where you can recline in candlelight with a cocktail. After dinner, head for 'Bar Street' - otherwise known as 'Disco Strip' - which runs east along the seaside, past the new harbour, where you'll find a string of music bars and clubs. If you fancy a night at the movies, there's the outdoor cinema, Refresh Paradiso, out on the ring road, which shows new Hollywood releases in their original language with Greek subtitles. Alternatively, standing on a headland next to the old harbour is the Bouzi Fortress, once used as a school, but now used as an art gallery and exhibition centre. Next door is an open-air theatre, where there's a varied programme of events throughout the summer, including ballet, concerts, plays, films and traditional Greek shadow-theatre.
  
  
• Admiral Benbow, Skiathos Town Missing your local? Pop into this British-style pub, where you can have a pint of beer or cider and listen to Britpop hits from the '70s and '80s.
  
  
• Borzoi, Skiathos Town This is the oldest club on the island, with stone walls, a sophisticated atmosphere and an eclectic mix of Latin, blues, rock and jazz music.
  
  
• Kavos, Skiathos Town A classic disco which pumps out hits right through the night. Popular with both young locals and tourists.
  
  
• Apothiki Music Hall, Skiathos Town Remember Zorba the Greek? Well, you can have a go at that famous dance at this typical bouzouki bar. It's also a chance to hear some authentic traditional Greek music.
  
  
• Kentavros, Skiathos One of the longer established music bars in Skiathos Town, this popular haunt for all ages offers a relaxed atmosphere, along with jazz and blues sounds.
  

Shopping

Most of the resorts on Skiathos have little more than one or two shops, selling basic provisions and a limited range of souvenirs. For proper shopping you really need to make the journey to Skiathos Town, easily reached via the regular bus service which runs up and down the south coast, stopping at all the resorts along the way. There are no malls or department stores, but Skiathos Town has a good selection of retail outlets, ranging from designer fashion shops to small, independent sellers of handicrafts. The main shopping street is Papadiamantis, but it's worth getting off this into the side streets if you want to find bargains. There's also a lively evening fish market at the western end of the harbour, where you can watch the fisherman bring in their daily catch and the traders haggling with the locals. When it comes to souvenirs, ceramics, leather goods, linen and jewellery are the favourites, but watch out for high prices in some of the more 'touristy' emporia. A bottle of the local wine will make a good souvenir. For the best value, take a trip to the Monastery of Evangelistrias, where you can buy wine made by the monks.