Guide to Paxos

"The enchanting necklace of coves on the east coast can easily be explored by sea using one of the fleet of small motorboats based in Loggos, Gaios or Lakka."

Visiting Paxos is like entering a world you thought only existed on the pictures of faded postcards, an island of sleepy fishing villages, extensive olive groves and tiny coves where astonishingly clear water washes white pebbly beaches. Untarnished by mass tourism, Paxos retains a delightfully unhurried way of life that gently forces even the most stressed-out visitor to unwind completely. Paxos is so small you have to catch a ferry from Corfu to get here. It has only two petrol stations and a couple of policemen - there are a few more priests than upholders of the law and far more churches, most of them handsome reminders of the Venetian era. Ambling through the forest, you may stumble magically on unexpected bays of startling turquoise or catch fleeting glimpses of the mountains of Epirus or the tiny isle of Antipaxos, or suddenly find yourself gasping at the sight of the sheer cliffs on the west coast. Nothing seems more conducive to winding down than taking life at strolling pace. Many of the delicious coves on the east coast can only be reached from the land by foot, along narrow paths threading through the gnarled trunks of the ancient olives. The enchanting necklace of coves on the east coast can easily be explored by sea using one of the fleet of small motorboats based in Loggos, Gaios or Lakka, the charming little harbour on the northeast tip of the island. Boating is a splendid way to discover the coast but foot-power is almost as good, wherever you are based. In Loggos, for instance, apart from the little beach on the edge of the village itself, there are three more beaches which can be reached in strolls of between five and fifteen minutes.

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