Guide to Kefalonia

Beaches

In a battle of Greek beaches, Kefalonia would come off well. Really well, in fact. That’s because the island’s edged by some of the most seductive sands on the planet. Topping the bill is the mighty Myrtos. Think white sands and turquoise waters hugged by jagged cliffs. Don’t let the stomach-churning trip down to shore put you off - Hollywood location scouts cast it in Captain Corelli’s Mandolin and it regularly tops best beach polls so you know you’re in for something special. Often referred to as a Myrtos relative, Petani seems to have pinched a few ideas from the island’s flagship beach. Not only has it nabbed a curved coastline and mountain backdrop, it’s accessorised with sparkling waters and ice-white sand, too. You’ll find it near Lixouri, which is a boat ride across from island capital, Argostoli. But don’t think all Kefalonia’s beaches are trying to muscle in on the Myrtos magic. Some stand firmly independent with their own style. Of all the stretches, those to the south draw the most people. Around Argostoli and Lassi you’ll find Platys Gialos and Makris Gialos, both of which virtuously flap the Blue Flag. They’re a big hit with sun-worshippers so get there early to clinch a decent spot. Further south there’s a great beach near the seaside hamlet of Katelio. It’s not far from Skala whose long ribbon of sand’s backed by a little pine forest that smells every bit as good as it looks. There are plenty of sunbeds to go round here, and restaurants and snack bars stack up behind the sands so you’re only footsteps from a bite to eat. Swing round to the east, meanwhile, and things get a little more pebbly. Poros, Sami and Agia Efimia are all worthy of your tanning time but the star attraction in these parts is Antisamos. It’s a gorgeous spot backed by bright green hills – yet another island slice to wind up on the big screen back in 2001. If you’re up in the north near Fiskardo, however, the two beaches to check out are Emblisi and Foki. They’re small, inviting and pretty as a postcard.

Eating out

• If you’re a fully paid-up member of the lunch-on-the-run club, you’ll need to make some changes when you come to Kefalonia. As with the rest of Greece, meals are something to take your time over - more a social event than an exercise in refuelling. Without doubt, the best way to ease yourself into Greek cuisine is with a bumper round of mezes. Sit back and watch your table fill up with loads of tempting little plates. Juicy olives, feta-stuffed filo, pan-seared shrimp, mussels, meatballs, squid… Okay, there’s quite a list and suffice to say there’s something for everyone. Throw in some warm pitta bread and a carafe or two of wine and you’ve got yourself a Greek feast. When you’ve had your fill of sharing and want a meal to call your own, Kefalonia offers up some classic recipes. First up is the king of the island’s dishes - the Kefalonian meat pie. You’ll find it everywhere you go – a pastry case crammed with lamb, beef, pork and rice. Another popular dish is lamb ‘kleftiko’. Essentially a casserole, it’s a foil-wrapped parcel packed with tomatoes, onions, potatoes and herbs. Beef ‘stifado’s’ a similar type of thing - a tangy stew-like affair with tomatoes, onions and garlic. Then, of course, there’s moussaka, minced lamb layered with potatoes and aubergines with a tasty white sauce. Oh, and being an island full of working fisherman, seafood’s a pretty big deal here as you’d expect. Octopus is a speciality, with swordfish and squid scoring highly with diners here, too. On the wine front, you can’t go wrong if you stick with the big names. Robola’s the star when it comes to white, while Mavrodaphne gets the red vote. And you can always walk on the wild side with a glass or three of ouzo, the local firewater.
  
  
• Tassia, Fiskardo Arguably Kefalonia’s most famous restaurant, this A-list favourite is owned by Greece’s top celebrity chef, Tassia Dendrinou.
  
  
• Kiani Akti, Argostoli If you can’t say no to seafood, point yourself in the direction of this place. The menu changes according to the day’s catch, with scallops, cuttlefish and octopus regularly cropping up.
  
  
• Sto Psito, Lassi Cross a large pond filled with exotic fish and terrapins and take your seat amid brightly-coloured flowers and masses of wild ivy. It’s a magical setting made even better by the fab panoramic views.
  
  
• II Destino, Skala If you’ve overdosed on moussaka, leave Greece behind for a while and give Italy a whirl. The menu here’s packed with dishes both classic and contemporary and the outside terrace is every bit as delicious as the food.
  
  
• Symposium, Skala This sea-facing favourite comes with its own gravel-voiced pianist. You can almost picture Sammy Davis Junior tinkling the ivories while Sinatra sips champagne in the corner.

Nightlife

• While some of her neighbours like to dig out their party shoes and dance ‘til daybreak, Kefalonia prefers to take it easy for the most part. A good meal, a few glasses of wine, maybe the odd moonlit stroll. But that’s no bad thing. The laid-back vibe’s enough to make Paris Hilton swap Hollywood debauchery for a life of Greek sunsets. As always, there’s a few exceptions to the rule though. Argostoli’s probably the closest thing to a wild side Kefalonia’s got. It’s home to a good set of bars, bouzouki clubs and discos, most of which spiral out from the main square, Platia Vallianou. Neighbouring Lassi’s one of the livelier resorts, with laid-back watering holes staying open as long as there are people wanting drinks. Skala, meanwhile, makes for a good night out, particularly during peak season when there’s crowd enough to create a lively atmosphere. Talking of atmosphere, it doesn’t get any more special than in Fiskardo. With hundreds of lights twinkling around the harbour, it sets the perfect mood for a meal by the water’s edge followed by cocktail-quaffing in the stylish bars.
  
  
• Bass, Argostoli This former cinema’s been converted into a club but it’s still got the old Hollywood magic. Seats are arranged in theatre style and there’s a huge vintage projector. Add top DJs, a booming sound system and plenty of palms and you’ve got an experience not to be missed.
  
  
• Dacappo, Argostoli Choose your cocktail then head up to the top floor of this swanky bar. The rooftop terrace is the ideal place to chill, mingle and drink in jaw-dropping views of Argostoli.
  
  
• Bocca, Argostoli What this place lacks in size it more than makes up for in atmosphere, with guest DJs from around the globe lording it over a busy dancefloor.
  
  
• Captains Bar, Skala More than 20 years have passed since the ribbon-cutting ceremony but this remains one of the best bars in Skala. The cocktail menu’s so long it may as well be written on wallpaper.
  
  
• Kastro Club, Fiskardo Once a mine, this is now the hottest club in Fiskardo. It’s an open-air number and in the middle of all the trees and plants is a massive stone dancefloor packed with clubbers.

Shopping

If your spending habits resemble those of Victoria Beckham, you might want to don your over-sized sunglasses elsewhere. You probably don’t need us to tell you this isn’t the shopping capital of the world. That said, there are some great buys to be had if you’re more of a root-and-rummage kind of shopper. The main place to fritter euros is Argostoli. Head for the market first – it’ll have you living like a local in no time. Stalls groan under the weight of honey, olive oil and, of course, the famous Robola wine. And if you’re a fan of fresh seafood, you’ll be in your element. Fishermen pull in their nets and flip their catch straight onto stalls. Prawns, crabs, scallops, bream – it’s all waiting to be weighed out and wrapped up for your evening meal. Markets aside, Argostoli keeps up this more traditional-style shopping scene. Start off in the main square and meander down the pedestrianised street, Lithostroto. Places to look out for include The Gallery, where you can choose a piece of Kefalonia to take home with you. English artist Peter Hemming captures the island’s landscape on canvas and his work fills the walls here. Weave your way to the seafront and you’ll come to a great jewellers, GG Garbis, which designed the jewellery for Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. It sells some really contemporary pieces – all fine stones and precious metals. While you’re wandering along the harbour, follow the scent of fresh bread to the famous Spathis Bakery. Here, loaves are baked using wood ovens and they taste divine. There are waist-expanding cakes, croissants and biscuits to tempt you, too, so expect to come away a few euros lighter and a pound or two heavier. Away from Argostoli, lots of other towns have their own set of shops. You’ll find plenty of art and pottery in Skala. Lassi’s got a sprinkling of places where you can pick up knick-knacks. And Fiskardo’s got a couple of designer clothes shops and some high-end gift stores. Maybe Posh could fill her Gucci boots here after all…