Guide to Palekastro

"Catching the Meltemi breeze on Crete's eastern tip, cool, quiet and unspoilt Palekastro is just on the cusp of becoming a 'tourist resort'"

With just a clutch of tavernas, a couple of bars and one disco, this charming rustic village is gradually making concessions to tourism – but it's a long way off from joining the ranks of the could-be-anywhere-in-the-world resorts. The modern apartments and hotels sit cheek by jowl with very traditional Cretan houses – one of which is now a folk museum, complete with old world furniture and utensils. Scooters have replaced donkeys for local transport, and you could hire one in the village for effortless trips to Chiona beach, a 20-minute walk away, or for the 8km run to the neighbouring resort of Vai. More famous than 'PK' – as the village is affectionately known – it has fast food bars, a lively night scene and a superb sandy beach, backed by Europe's only natural palm forest. A well-trodden track from here leads to the Greco-Roman ruins of Itanos, and other historic sites in the area include the Monastery of Toplou, the Minoan city at Rousolakkos, and Zakros – where a walk past tombs in the 'Valley of the Dead' gorge makes a short cut to the island's fourth Minoan Palace. However you wind down in PK, this peaceful corner of Crete will charm the flip-flops off you.

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