Guide to Maheri

'A pocket of old-time Crete clinging to rocky, olive-clad hills, rustic Maheri is an utterly unspoilt hideaway.'

Listen up if you fancy some traditional Cretan village. That's what Maheri's all about – simple, old-fashioned and expert at shrugging off the relentless tide of time. A knot of cobbled streets and courtyards on a rocky crag, it's so quiet here you can almost hear a pin drop. And it's authentically pretty too. Declared a conservation area for its beautifully restored stone houses, old olive press and delightful village square, new development is strictly prohibited – a sure sign of Cretans' pride in this quaint, homespun hamlet. For a holiday, you couldn't wish for a more peaceful and unspoilt oasis. When you feel like pottering around, acquaint yourself with the village's little white chapel built into a rock crevice. Follow one of the ancient trails fanning out across the rugged hills. Before long, you'll find yourself in tranquil chestnut and olive groves watched only by the impressive White Mountains above. Alternatively, respond to the magical views over the Cretan sea below. Turn downhill for a relaxed day on one of the nearby beaches or on Chania's waterside with its buzzing tavernas and shops. As night falls, a drink of the local firewater, raki, at Maheri's single kafenion is the perfect start to the evening. Next stop? A charming taverna at one of the neighbouring villages like Neo Chorio or Stilos. With a plate of home-cooked saganaki and jug of red wine set before you, you'll be ending your day in time-honoured Cretan style – just as you like it.

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