Guide to Crete

Beaches

When it comes to beaches, Crete has the cream of the crop. Huge swathes of divinely soft sand. Small coves lined with smooth warm pebbles. All lapped by super warm seas throughout the summer. And you can pick a beach to match your mood. Want it busy, booming and covered with eye candy? Malia Beach is the place to go. Not only is there fine golden sand that stretches for miles, but it's packed with funky bars and bronzed twenty-somethings. If you're after something a bit more family-focused, you're really spoiled for choice. Try the three pebbly shores at Agios Nikolaos, which are equipped with bathing platforms and watersports. Or the family-friendly Rethymnon Beach and Sun Beach, where they've thought of everything you could possibly need as you relax on their gorgeous sandy shores. For the sunbathing connoisseur, the fairy tale beach at Elafonioi is a must – pink sand, emerald seas and a coral reef lagoon. The ever popular Vai Beach near Agios Nikolaos is a winner with everyone – palm groves, sandy shore and warm waters. No wonder it's consistently in Greece's top ten sun spots. If you feel the need to escape the hoards for a day, hop in your hire car and head along the coast. While the beaches on the northeast coast have become fully fledged holiday havens, the rest of Crete still has little gems of coastline tucked away. Pack your parasol, a picnic and your iPod and go find your slice of paradise.

Eating out

• Oregano, sage and fennel litter the landscape. Olives and figs hang from the trees. And there's some excellent fishmongers just off the coast. With readily available ingredients that would turn Gordon Ramsay green with envy, you just know the food is top notch. The best place to get your teeth into some proper Cretan grub is always slightly off the beaten track. The tavernas set away from the main tourist strips. The random restaurant you happened to drive past in a tiny village. The pavement cafe where the locals are laughing. Having said that, Cretans are as proud of their food as they are of their island, so you'll get good nosh wherever you happen to be. Try a true Cretan classic, like 'saligaria stifado' – which is a tasty stew of tomatoes, herbs and snails. If eating creepy crawlies isn't for you, try the zingy 'dolmades', which are vine leaves stuffed with rice, meat and lentils. Or mini cheese pies sprinkled with sesame seeds, called 'kaltsounia'. 'Meze' is a great way to share the Greek experience with even the fussiest of eaters. A little bit everything, including olives, calamari, dolmades and bread, as well as those famous Greek dips – the fishy 'taramosalata' and yoghurty 'tzadziki'. When it comes to dessert, 'baklava' is the name of the game - filo pastry filled with nuts and honey. Or how about 'loukoumades' - deep fried fritters smothered in syrup? If you find yourself hankering for a taste of home, never fear. All the big resorts have British-style pubs and restaurants where you'll find all your home-from-home favourites.
  
  
• Chez Georges, Agios Nikolaos For mid day refreshment, you can't beat a coffee and light bite beside Agios Nikolaos's beautiful lake - and Chez Georges is most definitely the place to go.
  
  
• To Pigadi, Rethymnon A proper Greek taverna with an impressive garden terrace, fantastic food and a wine list to match.
  
  
• Platanos Taverna, Vrahassi Off the beaten path, this is a no frills, full flavour Cretan experience. Strictly local ingredients and mountain wines, you can't get any more authentic than this.
  
  
• Alvi, Rethymnon Cretan classics and sumptuous Mediterranean dishes, all served up in the walls of this 13th century Venetian house.
  
  
• Plaka, Elounda If you love seafood, you'll love Plaka. This little village is brimming with intimate tavernas dishing up the catch of the day.

Nightlife

• As the sun goes down, the lights come on all across Crete. From sedate harbour sides fringed with fairy lights to seafronts flashing full-on neon, you've got the pick of them all. Malia's the current darling of the party scene, with its legendary nightlife attracting pretty young things from all over Crete. Its luminous main strip is bursting at the seams with loud and lively bars, along with clubs that keep things going until the wee hours. Malia may have stolen its title as the official club capital, but Agios Nikolaos hasn't lost any of its night time sparkle. Head to the bars along the harbour for a few cheap drinks, then stroll into town for some funky drinking dens and hot clubs. Beers and blaring beats not your thing? Agios Nikolaos is all about atmosphere, too. You can just as easily grab an al fresco table at a taverna and enjoying an ouzo or two. Rethymnon's Venetian harbour is quite simply magical after dark – the perfect place to relax in the warm evening air. Of course, you'll find all the holiday classics at the main resorts – karaoke bars, live folk shows and the obligatory British bar. But if you're up for a proper slice of the Cretan scene, you need to head to Heraklion and Chania. Cue cosmopolitan clubs, international DJs and some downright trendy bars.
  
  
• Corkers, Malia Popular, pumping and rumoured to be one of the best Malia has to offer.
  
  
• Alexandros Roof Garden, Agios Nikolaos Always bustling, always lively and always worth a visit.
  
  
• Mylos, Chania Good sounds, top DJs, and a splash of style - Mylos is one of many hotspots in Chania.
  
  
• Fortezza, Rethymnon If you're more concerned with having fun than funky interiors, this is the place for you. A palatial club dedicated to all things cheesy, this is a proper holiday hangout.
  
  
• Living Room Cafe, Rethymnon Cafe by day, club by night, this lavishly laid out bar pulls in the fine and fashionable of Rethymnon.

Shopping

Think Greek Islands. Think shopping. What comes to mind? Leather, ceramics and miniature donkeys, right? Well, here's a tip – don't judge Crete by any other island's standards. We are, after all, talking about the largest island in Greece. It doesn't need tourism to keep it ticking over, so you'll find more than just seaside stalls here. Ok, there is an abundance of leather and ceramics, but it's all top notch. Try Chania's Leather Lane to grab a bargain bag, or its mix of arty shops for some studio ceramics. Then there's Krista - a hillside village outside of Agios Nikolaos, famed purely for its handicrafts. Agios Nikolaos gives you ample opportunities to stretch those purse strings in its chic boutiques, and Rethymnon has all the shops you'd expect in a big town. But the real Cretan buys are culinary. Pots of honey. Sachets of red saffron. And of course, the cheeses. Or perhaps you've been inspired by the fabulous Minoan jewellery? Whatever you decide to treat yourself to, Heraklion's brilliant Central Market will probably have it. Food, clothes, gold and souvenirs, it's open daily and said to be the best market in the Med.