Villa Filitsa The Bakery

An introduction to Villa Filitsa The Bakery

Situated in the tranquil village of Kefalas, just 30km from Chania, is the lovely Villa Filitsa. Brimming with history, this house was once the country residence of the Turkish Commander of Crete, Moustafa Pasa, in the early 18th century. The house was subsequently bought by the brother of Mathios Milonogiannis in 1923, the leader of the Apokoronas uprisings during the Turkish Liberation Wars and has been owned by his ancestors ever since. Over the years the house fell into a slightly dilapidated state, which has allowed the present owner, George, to rebuild and restore the structure, under the close supervision of the Greek Archaeological Society, using materials and techniques which would have been used when the house was originally built over a 100 years ago.

Walk through the main door and into the lovely open plan living-dining room with high beamed ceilings. The studio has an en suite shower and a balcony with pretty views of the square with the magnificent mountain backdrop. This makes a good choice for honeymooners. So as not to break the tranquillity of Villa Filitsa, the lovely swimming pool is set below the houses among olive trees. Although Kefalas village has a couple of small kafenions and a mini-market, vans arrive during the day selling fresh bread, fish and dairy produce. Vamos (5km away) has a wider selection of eating places and shops to chose from. One of the best kept village secrets is the little rocky cove of Obrogialos, a 10-minute drive from Villa Filitsa, where swimming platforms allow you to swim in some of the clearest turquoise sea we have seen and bask in the sun while you dry out on the rocks.

A kind of reverential hush descends upon those entering 'The Arches', for this former winery, with its graceful Venetian stone arches reaching up to the high vaulted ceiling, takes one's breath away in much the same way as the nave of a serene cathedral does. Perhaps the best time to appreciate the romance of this space, with its mezzanine-level double bed, is the evening, when the dying rays of the sun and spotlights at the base of the stone columns supporting the arches illuminate the interior to highly atmospheric effect. 'The Bakery' is of course the old kitchen of the house and a divan has been set up on the hearth beneath the massive chimney, which dominates the sleeping area of the cosy open-plan interior. 'Haremi' is contained in the old harem of the house, where the Turkish commander lived with his wives. It is a tall, three mezzanine-level structure with numerous windows only in the upper two levels, a traditional form of defence in Turkish buildings. A door from the sitting room on the second level leads to a roof terrace set slightly above the terrace shared by 'The Bakery' and 'The Arches' (on the roof of 'The Bakery'). From here it is possible to glimpse the sea shimmering over the ruined arches of the building next door. The 'Venetian Studio' is a recently-renovated studio in this historically-listed building.

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