Guide to Agios Stefanos

'Corfu the way it used to be: a tiny, blue-watered bay, a sprinkling of harbourside tavernas and a slow, soothing rhythm to life.'

Heck, if you can't unwind in Aghios Stephanos, the chances are you can't relax anywhere. Why? Let's look at the evidence. First, this small, pretty fishing village on the north east coast doesn't pretend to be anything else than well, a pretty fishing village. Which means that give or take a few quaint tavernas and cocktail bars, a smattering of arty gift shops, and some stylish villas up in the hills, there isn't much else here to divert you. Oh, apart from the little motorboats for rent along the quayside that might well entice you into some activity. Secondly, the scenery is indescribably beautiful. Lying in a scallop-shaped bay enfolded by pine-forested hills, the very sight of it is intensely relaxing. Add the clarity of the views over the Albanian mainland opposite – making out the houses on the shoreline is something of bar-time pastime here – and this is one setting sure to send shivers down your spine. There's more. How about the cute pebbled beach, its smooth stones tumbling down to calm aquamarine waters? The rustic tracks winding through the cypress-crested hills to secluded mountain villages? Or the shingle beaches and colourful watersports on hand at nearby Kalami and Avlaki? Almost forgot. Aghios Stefanos has another way to make that last stubborn furrow on your brow disappear. It's called the Corfu Special and it's served with relish at the village's waterside cocktail bars. Sip on this heady mix of Bacardi, Grand Marnier, orange and lemon juice and grenadine and you'll soon be seduced into the Aghios Stefanos state of mind – slow, relaxed and completely at peace with the world.

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