Guide to Croatia

Beaches

While it's not a completely sand-free zone, most of Croatia's Adriatic coast is dotted with pebbled bays and shingle coves. Astonishingly clear waters and smooth rocks ensure there's no sand in your suntan lotion. And many of the beaches have man-made bathing platforms. Not only are the crystal waves ideal for cooling you off from the sun, but they wonderful for watersports too. So swimming, snorkelling and sailing are all on the menu. On Lopud Island, however, you can kick off your shoes and sink your toes into one of the Croatia's few sandy beaches. It's wide, gorgeous and only accessible on foot or by boat. So make the effort and you'll enjoy some blissfully secluded beach days here. The beaches on the Makarska Riviera are probably the most beautiful in Croatia. And of them all the famous Zlatni Rat or 'Golden Horn' beach on Brac Island is the fairest. A triangle of shingle stretching out into the sea which changes shape with the tides – it's a beach-tastic slice of Croatian paradise.

Eating out

Take a pinch of Italian, a slice of Hungarian, a dash or two of Turkish and Viennese and you have Croatia's cuisine. A delicious blend of the best of the Mediterranean and central European styles. Mealtimes in Croatia are leisurely. Pavement cafes and restaurants are plentiful. And the taste – delectable. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the signature dish on the Adriatic coast is seafood. Fish and calamari plucked fresh from the sea tends to find its way onto most menus. Whether you choose 'buzara', scampi gently simmered in a delicious tomato sauce, 'brodetto all'istriana', a fish stew filled with shrimp, crab, mussels and clams, or the famous Istrian black and white risotto, you'll undoubtedly be in foodie heaven. If you fancy something meaty, give 'pasticada' a whirl. This beef concoction is cooked in bacon, wine and vinegar – it's scrummy. 'Palacinka' is perhaps the best-known dessert in Croatia, a folded pancake filled with jam, melted chocolate or crushed walnuts. Wash it down with crisp white and dark red Croatian wines, which are consistently good, reasonably priced and go down a treat.

Nautika, Dubrovnik – Widely regarded as Dubrovnik's finest restaurant, this place will hit you with a one-two sucker punch of great scenery and even better food. The view of the Adriatic Sea and fortresses are enough to lure you in, but the creations of renowned chef Nikola Ivanisevic truly puts the icing on the cake.

Konavoski Dvori, Pridvorje – Packed with vintage charm, this woodland restaurant's the land that time forgot. But that's no bad thing. In a world full of 'McMeals' it's nice to get back to basics with traditional hearty grub.

Proto, Dubrovnik – A favourite with King Edward VII and Mrs Simpson, this place has been serving up seafood since 1886. Their simple yet tasty dishes are based on the old recipes of Dubrovnik fisherman and are enough to send Captain Birdseye into early retirement.

Ivica I Marica, Zagreb – This gingerbread house, named after the Croatian version of Hansel and Gretel, offers some of the best desserts around. Not only that, their menu focuses on healthy, fresh meals with the daring omission of meat-based dishes.

Le Mandrac, Opatija – Seafood lovers will be falling at the feet of this quaint eatery. Set in an old fishing village, it makes full use of the waterfront location by serving up some of the best fish dishes around. Try the popular salmon cooked in fennel sauce – simply delicious.

Nightlife

Don't let the mellow and informal side of Croatia fool you. Sure there are pavement cafes aplenty, chic bars galore and more ice-cream parlours than you can shake a spoon at – and they're all fab – but there's another, more sexy, side to this cosmopolitan holiday hottie. And we're not just talking about the obvious spots like Dubrovnik either. No, it's little Hvar that's worked its way to the top of the list. Bar-come-club Carpe Diem is putting a swing in the step of Croatia's social scene. Loved by the jetset, it fronts a harbour lined with sleek 'my wallets bigger than yours' yachts. And behind its grand facade there lies an even more impressive heart. Hammocks, a patio dance lounge and top-notch DJs. And it's got a cocktail list longer than Donatella Versace's credit card bill too. Speaking of celebs, don't be surprised if you stumble across the odd A-lister stretched across an oriental cushion. Elsewhere though there's still plenty to do. Get cultured up with Pula's spectacular Roman amphitheatre to see a thrilling live performance. And if you've intentionally left your dancing shoes at home then hotfoot it to the Croatian National Theatre for sophisticated evenings watching world-class performances. Back on the islands - Hvar aside - evenings are a low-key affair with entertainment revolving around romantic walks along the stunning shoreline, delicious meals in cosy restaurants and a glass or two of your favourite drink in a quiet bar. Simply irresistible.

Hemingway, Zagreb - "Trainers won't cut it here! And you, change out of those shorts!" If you can make it past the door staff you're officially part of Croatia's upper crust. So dress to impress and hit the town in style. Order a Mai Tai and watch the skilful barman make Tom Cruise look like Frank Spencer.

Club Hacienda, Vodice - Touted as Croatia's top club, this is where serious clubbers come to throw some shapes. This open-air hotspot's packed with superstar DJs and plays host to Twice as Nice parties and the usual progressive house shindigs.

Crazy Horse, Zagreb - Sometimes the best bars are the ones you have to search for. Housed on a street that looks more suited to industrial workshops than bars, this place is a true hidden gem. Inside you'll find a crowd of 'the beautiful people' sipping cocktails and dancing to the latest sound of hip hop and house.

Buza 2, Dubrovnik - Literally meaning 'hole in the wall', this bar's down on the seafront and literally set into the rocks. You'll find no thumping beats or neon lights here – it's candlelight and waves all the way. Try and make it in time for the magical sunset.

Jackie Brown, Zagreb - Dedicated to all things black and minimalistic, this place is a haven for the older, more discerning drinker. With a background of smouldering sounds, choose from the extensive menu of fine whiskies and cognacs. Don't forget to compliment your drink with a fine cigar.

Shopping

Why go home empty-handed when you can shop 'till you drop. Croatia goes to great lengths to ensure you leave its shores laden with beautifully-crafted mementos. A wander round the lively street markets of this lovely land will give you bags full of unusual souvenirs to home to family and friends. Delicate Croatian embroidery lines the stalls, distinguished by the cheerful red geometric patterns set against a white background. You'll find intricate lace, fragrant lavender-scented sachets, and beautiful jewellery showing off impeccable workmanship. And the food's not bad either. The specialities of Croatia make excellent edible souvenirs – mellow brandies and tasty cheeses are particularly popular. Souvenirs are all well good, but what if that credit card is burning a hole in your pocket? Well that's the time to hit the malls and boutiques. Whether you're after labels or something more unusual, you'll find everything your heart desires in larger towns like Dubrovnik.