Guide to Bruges

“A fairytale of a city with storybook looks, dreamy canals and champion chocolate, they don’t come any cuter than Bruges…”

Leaving the serious stuff to big brother Brussels, Bruges is a city with romance on its mind. Famous for its fairytale beauty, it’s all winding cobbled streets, gingerbread townhouses and ribbons of hushed waterways. Almost a cliché, almost too pretty. Except it’s not. Utterly sweet, it manages not to be at all syrupy or schmaltzy. It positively demands you fall in love with it. And it would take a stony heart not to melt at first sight. Incredibly well preserved, its Medieval architecture is up there with the very best in Europe and its got a UNESCO listing to prove it. Once a big player in the cloth trade, it was pretty much abandoned in the 15th century when its river route to the sea silted up. There it lay, untouched, in a centuries-long time warp. Amazingly, this little gem emerged unscathed after both World Wars, enabling it to take centre stage once again, this time as Belgium’s Number One tourist attraction. With centuries of sights under its belt, there’s a lot to cram in. But you shouldn’t rush Bruges. It needs a gentle approach. Walking is the way to do it – slowly and appreciatively. Not forgetting to taste your way around the chocolate shops along the way – Belgium and chocolate go together like Hercule and Poirot. Luckily, you can tread this egg-shaped city in a few hours. But before setting off, climb to the top of the 13th century Belfry for the matchless view beneath. With its toy-town looks, Bruges bears little resemblance to the 21st century. But it’s all the better for it. A contender for Europe ’s most romantic city, all visits here end happily ever after.

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Eating out

When you mention Belgium and food, it’s often take-away that gets the attention. Those oh-so-tempting frites have become world-famous. And Bruges is no exception. Frites stalls and waffle stands are city staples and you can’t walk far without coming across one. Drenched in mayo and cream respectively, they make naughty-but-nice on-the-go treats. Just about every restaurant has moules-frites on the menu, but Belgian dining is a whole lot more than just frites with everything. Its cuisine is a serious rival to that of its snooty gourmet neighbour France. National dishes tend to be big, rich and meaty. Rustic, peasant-type food put together with a dash of contemporary sophistication. And they’re very partial to throwing a good dollop of their prized beer into the mix. Favourites include ‘lapin a la biere’ – rabbit in beer – and ‘carbonnade flamande– beef braised in, you guessed it, beer. Another favourite is ‘Waterzooi’ – a fish or chicken stew, with leeks, parsley and cream. You may find the likes of hare, pheasant and pigeon on some menus. And being so close to the North Sea, fish is a leading player, too. Clearly, it’s not exactly gastronomic heaven for veggies. Luckily for them, the Belgians whisk up a mean omelette – great with those frites. The Belgians enjoy their food and like eating out, and in Bruges you’ll be tripping over restaurants, particularly in the streets around Markt and ‘t Zand Squares. And whether you go top end or budget, you’ll find the Belgians are generous with their portions. The hearty food goes down a treat with a Belgian beer and your only problem will be deciding which kind. There are lots. Some fermented, some made by Trappist monks. Some are light and lager-ish. Others are strong and yeasty. The colours vary as much as the flavours. Beer-lovers are in for a treat.

Tom’s Diner, West Gistelhof 23 When the locals love a place you know it must be good. And they love this one. Very reasonably priced, too, being a little bit away from the main tourist area. Inside it’s all authentic Flemish and rustic, and the food is typically Belgian, too. Very stylishly done with the accent on very fresh, in-season ingredients.
Den Gouden Cop, Steenstraat 1 Facing the Markt, this is popular and convenient. A restaurant, brasserie and tea-room all in one, it will serve you everything from a beer or a cup of coffee to a stout Flemish stew or Bouillabaisse. Great for combining a snack with a spot of people-watching. And with an open fire, it’s cosy and warm out of season.
De Zilveren Pauw, Ziverstraat 41 A glitzy night out is what you’ll get here. Dripping with luxury – all chandeliers and discreet elegance – the 'Silver Peacock' is the sumptuous Art Nouveau stage on which famous Belgian chef Patrick Devos performs his gastronomic miracles.
De Stove, Kleine St Amandsstraat 4 Husband and wife Gino and Erica run this small intimate eaterie, where the menu always includes freshly caught North Sea fish as well as a wide selection of meat dishes. The imaginative menu changes regularly and absolutely everything – from the bread to the ice-cream – is made in-house.
Arthies, Wollestraat 10 This ticks all the boxes for ambience, service and food. The ‘art of eating’ is the restaurant’s slogan, and the staff go out of their way to ensure it’s a lesson you’ll enjoy learning. The menu is international – pastas, salads, fish and meat – and as well as lunch and dinner you can just drop in for a drink and a snack on the terrace.

Nightlife

Becoming the backdrop to the recent Colin Farrell movie ‘In Bruges’ was probably the most exciting thing to have happened in this little city in centuries. Because it’s fair to say Bruges and buzzing nightlife have as much in common as chalk and cheese. That’s not all bad, of course – it means you’re not going to be trampled underfoot by rampaging drunken stags and screeching hens. But don’t assume a nice dinner followed by a beer and a quiet wander along the canal is as interesting as it’s going to get here after dark. Keep an ear cocked as you stroll and you’ll catch the strains of mellow jazz and blues seeping from cosy bars. If your inner party animal is straining to be unleashed, listen harder and you’ll even uncover a smattering of venues where you can dance on the tables ‘til the wee hours. Beer buffs, of course, will probably be more than content quaffing potent ales in some of the countless inviting bars that lurk round every quaint corner. But be selective where you hang your hat for the atmosphere’s as diverse as the beers, making for very eclectic supping. If it’s something a bit more refined you’re after, look no further than the city’s ultramodern Concertgebouw for top-notch opera, classical music and theatre. There are other smaller performing arts venues, too. Or pick up a concert in one of the local churches which make splendidly shivery settings for classical music. So you see, a night in Bruges can be as cool, highbrow, or down and dirty as you like. Just takes a bit of searching. To help you out, pick up a free copy of Exit or Agenda Brugge for all the low-down, which has listings in English.

The Cactus Club, Magdalenastraat 27 These guys run a music schedule covering everything from techno to rock, jazz to house, at various venues around town, but mostly here at their main base. Usually DJs preside but live bands appear fairly frequently. In July it hosts the Cactus Music Festival at Minnewater Park.
‘t Brugs Beertje, Kemelstraat 5 With its warm, inviting atmosphere, Bruges’s Little Bear has to be on your list of places to visit. It’s the place for beer sampling. There are around 300 different varieties and the friendly staff will happily help you choose. There’s also a good cheeseboard to help soak up all that ale as the evening progresses.
De Republiek, St Jakobsstraat 36 Big, brash and buzzing, this is a favourite with locals, especially at weekends when DJs crank the action up a notch. Set around a courtyard, its neighbour is Cinema Lumiere, the city’s art-house movie theatre. Some good, reasonably-priced food, too.
'T Poatersgat, Vlamingstraat 82 A real hole-in-the-wall place, its name is Flemish dialect for the Monk’s Hole – you literally go through a carefully concealed hole in the wall and down steps to a candlelit cellar. With over 100 Belgian beers available, there’s nowhere neater to try a Trappist.
Concertgebouw, 't Zand 34 A very 21st century concert hall that sits majestically, if a bit incongruously, in its Medieval host city. Opera, classical music, theatre and dance are all performed here, but be warned that theatre productions will almost certainly be in Dutch or French. With 1,300 seats, you ought to be able to get a ticket easily enough.
Celtic Ireland, Burg 8 They get everywhere, these Irish, don’t they? If you need a break from beer, down a Guinness in this Irish-flavoured bar which thumps to the sounds of Celtic-inspired rock and pop nightly in summer and at weekends the rest of the year.

Shopping

Family and friends on your gift list are going to love you when you come home laden with chocolates, waffles and sugar biscuits. Because, let’s face it, that’s probably what you’re going to be buying. Bruges doesn’t set itself up as a city of trend-setting shops. It has other, more high-minded, qualities. Though you will find a cluster of tasty upmarket stores around the Markt and ‘t Zand Squares. Steenstraat, Zuidzandstraat, Noordzandstraat, and the Zilverpand arcade are the places to head for. But shopaholics should make a pact to love Bruges for what it does best – choccies to die for, delicate lace and jewellery. Ceramics, wooden toys and quirky, old-fashioned souvenirs. There’s no shortage of town centre chocolate shops where you can drool over mouth-watering displays of pralines, truffles and Florentines. Lace – its other big seller – has been made in Belgium for centuries, but nowadays a lot less is crafted by hand. If you’re not expert enough to tell the difference between machine and hand-made, the price will soon let you know. Chances are, there’ll be a clinking sound as you head home – Belgian beer is strong, scrumptious and a stonking good buy. There are around 350 different varieties so you’d best get testing early on to find out what’s going to accompany you home. Another Belgian icon is Tintin, Herge’s ace reporter, and his faithful sidekick Snowy. Fans of the timeless cartoons can wallow in nostalgia at the city centre Tintin shop, full of tee shirts, figurines, DVDs and, of course, the books themselves. But for the most authentic peek into local life, visit the markets. Belgians love them and the two biggies are in Burg Square on Wednesdays and ‘t Zand Square on Saturdays. It’s always buzzing at the weekend Flea and Antiques Markets on Dijver, and the lively morning fish market at Vismarkt is worth a visit, too. Being a very walkable city, you’ll find it easy to get around, and as cars are pretty much banished, it’s a healthy, fume-free experience.