Guide to Mexico Puerto Vallarta

Beaches

Puerto Vallarta rolls out no end of spectacular beaches. We're talking golden sands so fine they feel like satin underfoot. And Pacific seas whose colours change from turquoise to jade to sapphire. There's every kind of beach, too. Lively town numbers where the vibe's more daytime partying than day-dreamy dozy. Solid gold sun-worshipping territories. And trance-inducing tropical bays. For the liveliest atmosphere, hotfoot it to the main town beach – Playa Los Muertos. It's hip, happening and hot, all day long. Think rows of professional tanners sunning their limbs. Energetic volleyball games and parked-up jetskis. And trendy 'palapa' eateries just begging you to break up your bronzing bouts with long seafood lunches. And the beaches of the Hotel Zone are just as seductive. Here, broad sweeps of sands keep hotel guests happy from early morning to late afternoon with their pulsating watersports and blissfully warm waters. Just pop on your sun lotion, flop on your lounger and drop off to the lapping waves. And if you need a wake-up call, let the watersports oblige. Float through the air under a billowing parasail. Take off on water-skis. Or grab a snorkelling pleasure boat from Marina Vallarta. But don't think that's it. The 100 mile-long shores of Banderas Bay are littered with other beaches. Windsurfers will love the Punta Mita peninsula, where white-tipped rollers create great surf breaks. Meanwhile, peace-lovers will fall for the Bay's southern shores. Here, a string of eye-candy coves nestle into steamy jungle backdrops. Catch a 'panga' boat to Yelapa to chill out in its peaceful paradise. Or hop on a bus to Mismaloya – a magical sheltered cove where many scenes from 'Night of the Iguana' and 'Predator' were filmed. It's outrageously beautiful. And for the ultimate Robinson Crusoe idyll, take a boat to the Las Marietas Islands. These rocky islets don't just offer spectacular snorkelling and diving. They're gilded by quiet beaches perfect for hiding away from the rest of the world.

Eating out

• Puerto Vallarta's got a 250-strong list of restaurants that'll get every gastronome gushing with delight. And we're not just talking temples to Mexican gastronomy. The town is like a world convention of international cuisine, with eateries inspired by the furthest-flung corners of the globe. We're talking Spanish, Thai, French, Chinese, American, Asian and Italian. And a whole lot more. For the widest choice, hightail it to Basilio Badillio. This downtown street isn't nicknamed 'restaurant row' for nothing. Another hotspot is along Playa Los Muertos beach. Here, lots of the resort's long-standing legends perch above the sands. Grab a chair and dig in on their modern Mexican and fresh seafood creations while wowing at a Pacific sunset. And hunger pangs don't get a look in at the Hotel Zone or Marina Vallarta, either. The hotels and restaurants here offer some of Puerto Vallarta's finest foodie haunts. And for really earthy Mexican cooking, take a turn out of town. The surrounding forests are peppered with restaurants where you can savour traditional Mexican treats. Tuck into crumbly 'tacos' stuffed with chilli-infused meats and cheese. Mouth-watering 'chilli con carne'. And spicy 'fajitas' – soft tortillas filled with fiery fried meat, onions, peppers and chillies. All along with fish plucked straight from the sea. Think barbecued red snapper, tuna and grouper. And lobster, shrimp and shellfish drenched in coconut sauce or turned into chunky soups. The drinks are amazing, too. Beat the heat with an icy-cold 'Sol' topped with a zesty lime wedge. See out sundown over a sublime, salt-rimmed 'margarita'. Or if you're feeling parched, reach for tropical fresh fruit juices made with freshly squeezed papaya, mango and pineapple. And don't even think about leaving without downing some tequila. The heady national drink comes in a bewildering array of varieties. Mixed in cocktails or served in shots, it's a definite Mexican must-try.
  
  
• Trio, Puerto Vallarta Polished marble floors greet you at this swish international eaterie. Feast on delights like Lebanese goat's cheese salad and roasted red snapper in lime sauce.
  
• La Palapa, Puerto Vallarta This local legend is unutterably romantic. Coo over the slap-up seafood whilst ogling the sunset or go for lunch, when the waiters serve you on Playa Los Muertos' sands.
  
• Cenaduria Flor Morena, Puerto Vallarta Fill up with hearty 'enchiladas' and crisp 'tacos' at this chirpy Mexican diner facing Vallarta's main square. It's super-cheap, so your wallet's onto a good thing, too.
  
• Argentino Los Pibes, Puerto Vallarta Juicy steaks. Garlic shrimps. And oodles of noodles. The varied menu at this semi-posh haven will keep everyone happy.
  
• Daiquiri Dick's, Puerto Vallarta Tourists flock to this Californian-Mexican beachfront restaurant for its luscious lobster tacos and grilled fish on a stick. Watch the waves rolling below or come at sundown, when the views are at their best.

Nightlife

• Puerto Vallarta comes into its own come sundown. Lively as it is during the day, its charms seem to double as darkness takes hold. Its location on Mexico's west coast has lots to do with it. The sunsets here are so sensational, they're like a siren call for everyone to hit the beachside bars and sink a few cocktails whilst soaking up the red-and-orange explosions over the sea. From then on, the full rhythm of night swings into action. As the last fading sunbeams turn the sky mauve and orange, Aztec-costumed dancers, body-painted acrobats and animated musicians emerge from nowhere, showing off their skills along the Malecon to strolling crowds. Flickering lanterns light up on romantic restaurant patios hung with bougainvillea. And the smoke-tinged aromas of barbecuing fish and seafood mingle with the first trumpet licks of 'mariachi' music, beckoning you into a myriad of eating spots. But don't think everything's about wining and dining. Puerto Vallarta has a hundred and one ways to enjoy the evening. Board a catamaran to gaze at the shimmering resort lights from deck. Clink your 'margarita' glasses in a cosy bar serenaded by smoochy salsa. Or dive into a rip-roaring Mexican fiesta, where sombrero-hatted 'mariachis' and folklore dancers whip up a frenzy of foot-tapping fun that'll have you singing in the shower come morning. And if you're up for wilder shenanigans, this town's right on your wavelength. As midnight approaches, two hotspots beckon dedicated night owls. Cross the Rio Cuale to the South Side – it's crammed with cool watering holes, intimate clubs and funky gay bars. Or for serious grooving, hotfoot it to the Malecon. Right along this hedonistic strip, cutting-edge dance clubs, drinking dens and restaurants draw excited young revellers. Burn a hole in the floor to head-splitting techno, acid jazz or classic pop. Shake your booty to live salsa, Latino beats or American rock. Or hit a fun-packed pub to conga and carouse 'tl the wee hours.
  
  
• Zoo, Puerto Vallarta You can't miss this nightspot slap on the Malecon – it's got a giraffe on its roof. Shimmy to Top 40 hits, boogie in the dance cage and party like an animal.
  
• Rhythms of the Night Cruise, Puerto Vallarta This is a tropical treat. First, a catamaran glides you to an idyllic nearby cove. Second, you dine by torchlight on the sands with the palms whispering overhead. Then you're entertained by tribal dancers, bare-chested drummers and costumed performers enacting hypnotic pre-Columbian rituals. Unforgettable.
  
• De Santos, Puerto Vallarta This uber-cool club boasts a techno-powered dancefloor and a rooftop bar where guests swig on cocktails whilst lapping up chill-out tunes.
  
• Senor Frog's, Puerto Vallarta A free-for-all atmosphere reigns at this sawdust-floored bar, which packs with youthful crowds every night. Weekly foam parties add to the fun.
  
• Mariachi Loco, Puerto Vallarta This is the Mexican full monty. A restaurant-show-bar, it's a whirl of infectious 'mariachi' bands, Mexican dishes and ranchero classics. Tap your feet, tuck in and sing along.

Shopping

Puerto Vallarta's got several malls crowded with fashion chains, boutiques and souvenir emporia. And one big department store. But surprisingly for such a tourist-minded town, the shopping here's more rustic and earthy than ritzy and exclusive. The town centre sums it up. While the main malls can all be found in Marina Vallarta and the Hotel Zone, downtown Puerto Vallarta comes up trumps for one-off treasures and trinkets. First place to head are the streets behind the Malecon – they're laced with dinky gift shops, chi-chi boutiques and galleries. And all along the Malecon, street vendors peddle Mexico's silver jewellery, handicrafts, T-shirts and painted shot glasses. But the best shopping comes from the markets around the Rio Cuale. Just think Mexican shabby-chic and you've got the picture. Start at the Municipal market. This two-storey emporium creaks under rainbow-striped blankets, hand-blown glass, woodcarvings and papier-mache parrots – all favourite take-homes. And once you're done here, saunter across the river to the flea market. Yet another explosion of colourful knick-knack stalls, it's got more Mexican shirts, leather goods, earthenware pottery and jewellery than any shopper could bargain for. Talking of which, make sure you barter. If you don't, you could easily end up paying over the odds. Wherever you are though, there's plenty to catch your eye souvenir-wise all around town. Most popular are classic Mexican goodies like psychedelic paintings, terracotta dishes and decorative rings and bracelets made from local silver. Then there's Huichol Indian art. The Aztec-descended Huichol still live in the high Sierra Madre. Check out their yarn 'paintings'. These symbolic, braided pictures are inspired by the visions they have during ceremonial rituals, many of them induced by 'peyote', a hallucinogenic cactus plant. Or there's Huichol beadwork – wooden carvings intricately laid with beads depicting jungle animals.

Location

Puerto Vallarta