Guide to Mexico Caribbean Coast

Beaches

The beaches along Mexico's Caribbean Coast are real showstoppers. We're talking sand as soft, white and fluffy as a Mr Whippy ice-cream. Lagoon-blue waters heated to bathtub level by never-ending sunshine. And watersports galore. Take Cancun. From Playa Las Perlas in the north to Playa Nizuc in the south, this is beach city. Carpeted in crumbly-soft sands, the beaches merge together to form a dazzling 14 mile-long playground. And all along the north and east shores of its 7-shaped peninsula, they're bordered by bars, restaurants and watersports rentals so you're never more than a flip-flop from an ice-cold 'cerveza', fast 'fajita' or pulse-racing parasailing ride. Playa del Carmen is hot on Cancun's heels. Here, miles of white sand unfurl in front of you, lapped by crystal-clear waters on one side and an ever-changing parade of nodding palms and restaurants on the other. It's a similar story in Playacar and right along the Riviera Maya. Here, dreamy scoops of palm-fringed sands melt into blue-green waters that'll get snorkellers diving for their flippers. And talking of watersports, there's always a windsurfing, water-skiing or kayaking session waiting to top off your day. But for eye-candy beauty, it's hard to beat Tulum. There's the main beach – a rolled-gold sweep of sands washed by ultramarine seas. Then there's the Tulum cove. Framed by rugged cliffs topped with an age-old Mayan temple, the sands here glide into lime-green seas. But some of the coast's finest beaches lie offshore. On Cozumel and the Isla Mujeres to be exact. These desert island gems are encircled by tropical beaches and coral gardens brimming with coloured fish.

Eating out

Almost everywhere you turn on this stretch of coast, you'll find a traditional 'cantina' selling Mexican favourites. There are 'tacos', crammed with spicy meats and cheese. Big plates of 'chilli con carne'. Soft fajita wraps, shovelled with onions, peppers and chilli. And 'quesilladas' – tasty cheese-filled tortillas. A perhaps less well known, but equally tasty, dish is 'huevos rancheros'. This hearty morning treat gives the full English brekkie a serious run for its money. Made up of sizzling fried eggs drenched in chilli-infused tomato sauce, it's served on a floury tortilla. Traditional dishes aside, fish puts in a regular appearance on most menus. Expect red snapper and juicy prawns lifted straight from the sea. And if your tastebuds are tough enough, give super-spicy fish soup 'sopa de camaron' a go. But don't worry if all this sounds to fire-powered for your tastes. All the hotels offer international restaurants serving everything from pasta to Peking duck. And in Cancun and Playa del Carmen, it's a case of every cuisine under the sun. Flashy burger and fast food joints. Italian, Asian, French, Chinese eateries – they're all here in force. Oh, and Mexico's drinks are the stuff of legend. Cue more home-brewed 'cervezas', like Sol and Corona, than you can shake a fresh lime at. And, of course, pure tequila. Made from the blue agave plant, Mexico's national drink comes in endless varieties. Give it a shot. Accompanied by a zesty lemon wedge to temper its fire, it's Mexico in a glass.

Pat O'Brien's, Cancun Waiters balancing drinks on their heads fuel the carnival mood at this iconic Ireland-meets-Texas restaurant-bar. The Cajun-Creole food's a winner, with everything from scrummy jambalaya to good ol' Louisana chicken to sink your teeth into.


Carlos 'n' Charlies, Playa del Carmen On-bar congas. Singing waiters. The Mexican-American grub at this fun-loving restaurant comes with lashings of noise and colour as side orders.

Los Almedros, Cancun If you're after authentic Yucatecan food, this smartish eaterie features yellow-and-blue murals and countless traditional dishes at great prices. Don't miss the 'cochinita pibil' – succulent pork baked in banana leaves.

Il Giardino, Tulum This cosy Italian is a real fave and boasts an enchanting garden terrace where you can feast on soft 'calamari' and dreamy tiramisu amongst other delights.

Club Grill, Cancun Part of the Ritz Carlton hotel, this crystal-filled dining room is all delicate scallops and melt-in-the-mouth truffles.

Nightlife

• It may sound like a cliche, but the Caribbean Coast drums up something for everyone come dusk. Think wild nights of boogying where the sun sneaks up without you noticing. Evening strolls along the beach with the sands cascading between your toes. Or slurping ice-cold margaritas in a palm-decorated bar. Cancun's the mothership of party spots. There's just no stopping this rocket-fuelled town. First up, most of the hotels offer up discos, casinos, cocktail lounges and live music. Step outside and there's a whole lot more. Slip into those gladrags and head for Party Center - a mass of neon-lit fun palaces that draws European and American crowds like bees to a honeypot. Cue multi-tiered clubs hosting foam parties, laser shows and world-class DJs who churn out techno, reggae and pop. Fun-packed restaurant-clubs where one minute you're digging into 'enchiladas', the next you're conga dancing on the bar. And more lounge bars, rock clubs and casinos than you could name in a week. And Playa del Carmen is a chip off Cancun's block. It may be smaller than its neighbour, but it's imbued with the same party spirit. The nerve centre is 5th Avenue. This colourful street is packed with subterranean clubs, funky waterholes and outdoor cafes many with dance floors. And if all that sounds too hot to handle, Playacar and other spots along the Maya Riviera are ideal. Fancy something more sedate? Tulum's the quietest nighttime hideaway. As darkness falls, beach 'cabanas' and restaurants light the sands. Grab a table for a starlit dinner. Then snuggle up in a cosy bar as the first guitar strums of a 'mariachi' band seep into the air.
  
  
• Dady'O Cancun Burn a hole in the floor at this vast nightclub. Go-go dancers, lasers and techno make it one huge, hedonistic temple.
  
  
• Cancun Queen, Cancun Stroll the decks of this romantic dinner-show paddle cruiser as it chugs around Cancun's lagoon. The sunset views are all the colours of the cocktails they serve.
  
  
• Mezzanine, Tulum Station yourself on a beanbag or candlelit table overlooking Tulum beach at this trendy bar. Partygoers pack in on Fridays, when world-class DJs spin the tunes.
  
  
• Blue Parrot, Playa del Carmen Sip on chilled 'Sol' from a rope-hung swing at this legendary Playa nightspot. Sand floors, candles and a dance stage make it Mexican through-and-through.
  
  
• Senor Frog's, Cancun This joint jumps. Expect wild tequila lines, manic mambo lessons, loud live bands and a jam-packed dancefloor every night.

Shopping

For traditional shopping, hotfoot it to the open-air markets of the provincial towns. Valladolid's a good choice. It's got a leafy main square with stalls selling 'huipil' – Mayan embroidered dresses – rustic leather goods and terracotta dishes. And even though it's a long trip, the elegant city of Merida has enough stores and markets to kick start some serious souvenir splurges. Think shops bursting with brightly striped hammocks. Scrunchable Panama hats. And comfy 'huaraches' - the woven leather sandals worn by villagers here for centuries. Mexico's hand-woven, rainbow-striped rugs and blankets also make great mementos. Cheap and cheerful, most are light enough to easily carry back home. Taxco jewellery is another good buy. Taxco's Mexico's silver capital and famed for its finely crafted bangles, necklaces and rings. For a complete A-Z of shopping though, Cancun's wins hands down. Its Hotel Zone is stuffed with malls that'll whip gift-hunting 'gringos' into a frenzy. Cue big-label designer names, electronics shops, department stores and souvenir outlets stacked with dayglo Mayan figurines and wooden toucans. Then there's downtown. Here, bustling markets come heaped with bric-a-brac, crafts and curios. Playa del Carmen has more than its peso-worth of shops, too. Its main thoroughfare is choc-a-bloc with arts and crafts stores, hip jewellers, pottery studios and beachwear boutiques. And although Playacar has just one mall, Playa del Carmen awaits just round the corner. But one of the best shopping haunts is Tulum. It's got a cornucopia of shops, stalls and vendors selling rustic rugs, leatherwork and semi-precious jewellery. But whatever the other temptations, most people come home with some Mexican tequila. White 'blanco' is the cheapest, but for something finer and smoother, choose the gold-coloured vintages.