Guide to Barbados

Beaches

From the tip of their palms down to their sandy seabeds, Barbados’ beaches are classic Caribbean. The west coast is the shining example. Known as the ‘Platinum Coast’, it’s where most holidaymakers flock for their sun-and-sand fix. And it’s easy to see why. Take St James. Here, floppy palms tickle porcelain sands. Turquoise waters trickle up the shore. And sunbathers stroll along the water’s edge to sip ice-cold cocktails under the trees. It’s all very civilised and chilled-out. Watersports are everywhere, too. At Paynes Bay for instance, the ivory sands are dotted with jetskis and windsurf boards. Then there’s Mullins Bay in St Peter. One of the west coast’s most popular spots, this ribbon mixes ultramarine seas with fantastic watersports. Sandy Lane beach is another favourite. A crescent of rolled-gold sands fringed by mahogany trees, it’s something of a celebrity hangout - you may just clock Simon Cowell and Tiger Woods sunning themselves here. And the west coast’s waters are something else, too. Calm and warm, they’ll have snorkellers swooning. On the south coast, meanwhile, the beaches take a buzzier turn. Cue a younger, funkier vibe with more bars and watersports along the sands. There’s St Lawrence Bay for starters. This cute little number comes with wonderfully shallow seas and bobbing fishing boats. Further south is Dover Beach. Big and beautiful, its pinky sands are peppered with drinks stalls. The jewel in the crown though is Foul Bay. Don’t be put off by its name. Hidden away in St Philip and framed by wooded hills, its white sands and rolling surf make it a favourite with the tanning crowd. Beware though - it’s strictly for strong swimmers only. Want to wander off the tourist beat? Then head for the east coast. Washed by wild Atlantic waters, the beaches here are rougher round the edges. Bathsheba’s a case in point, loved by windsurfers for its crashing breakers.

Eating out

• Wherever you go here, you’ll find plenty of restaurants serving European-style dishes. The hotspot is the west coast. It’s lined with beachside eateries serving up favourites like burgers, pastas and grills. And it’s got its ritzy side too. St James especially is famed for its chi-chi restaurants. These haute-cuisine havens specialise in trendy Med-meets-Asia cuisine. Book a table on a candlelit terrace, tuck in a linen napkin and feast on everything from Portobello mushroom salads to perfectly sculpted parfaits. Prefer something more homely? No worries. From Christchurch to St Peter, you’ll stumble across fast-food joints, buffet bars and Italian, Chinese and Indian eateries. All this said though, you’d be mad not to sample some Bajan cuisine. A hotchpotch of different influences, it’s like the locals have taken the best bits of Asian, European and African food, popped them all into a shaker maker and let rip. First up though, fish and seafood take centre-stage. Cue fantastically fresh red snapper, dorado and kingfish. Juicy jumbo prawns smothered in garlic. And the freshest lobster ever to pass your lips. The staple though is flying fish. These Caribbean commoners are served steamed, fried or simply blackened under the grill. Look out for them in the national dish of ‘cou-cou’ - a hunger-beating combo of okra and cornmeal that’s usually topped with their fillets. Another must-try is ‘pepperpot’. This hearty beef or pork stew is fiery stuff as it’s gently simmered in a sauce made with searing-hot Scotch Bonnet peppers. In the dessert department, expect mounds of mouthwatering tropical fruit like guavas, paw-paws and mangos. The Bajans love their cakes and pies, too. Try the fresh coconut pudding coated in sticky brown sugar. Drinks-wise, cocktails are everywhere. Don’t miss Bajan rum punches, either. Made with tangy lime, dark rum and angostura bitters, they’re rocket-fuel in a glass. Oh, and if you’re craving beer, reach for some Banks. The locals’ favourite, it’s fresh, smooth and spot-on for swigging under the palms.
  
  
• Fisherman’s Pub, Speightstown, St Peter
  
  Moreish ‘cou-cou’. Sizzling ‘pepperpots’. And lip-smacking fried chicken. You can’t beat this hugely popular, if battered, seaside pub for authentic Bajan grub.
  
  
• Round House Restaurant, Bathsheba
  
  Perched above Bathsheba beach, this homespun inn whisks up terrific lunches and suppers to the crash of the rollers below.
  
  
• Zaccios, Holetown, St James
  
  Gorge on juicy burgers and fresh snapper at this prettily painted beachfront bistro. Don’t miss the rum ‘n’ coconut cocktails - they’re to-die-for.
  
  
• The Cliff, St James
  
  All crisp white linen and torchlit terraces, this fine-dining temple attracts the A-list crowd. You’ll need deep pockets, but the food and views are worth every penny.
  
  
• Bellini Trattoria, St Lawrence Gap
  
  This cosy-but-smart Italian eatery offers up top-notch pizza and pasta. Ask for a table on the veranda overlooking the beach and you’ll be in heaven.

Nightlife

Party animal or peace-lover, there’s something to suit you here come sundown. For relaxed evenings, the west coast is your best bet. From St Peter down to Paynes Bay, everything settles into that supper-and-sunset groove. Think romantic seafood dinners to the whisper of the waves. Steel drums playing on a starlit hotel terrace. And lingering strolls along the sands as the moon peeps between the palms. Having said that, there are some upbeat haunts. Take Holetown and Speightstown. Head into their centres and you’ll find plenty of bars ranging from chic bistro nooks to wooden pubs churning out calypso beats. And the further south you go, the more the fun factor ratchets up. Take St Lawrence Gap. Running between Dover Beach and St Lawrence, this seaside strip is jumping most nights of the week. Start by slurping margaritas at a beachfront bar. Grab a snack from a hot food stand. And then hit an open-air club, dancing with the locals to pounding reggae and soca until sun-up. There’s a similar scene in Worthing and Rockley in Christchurch, too. The nightlife nerve centre is Bay Street. Here, you’ll find waterfront clubs offering everything from wild party nights to live music. If you fancy living it up Bajan-style, they’re the place to be. Crowds of Brits and locals shimmy to the rhythms on the sands. Fire-eaters and lithe-limbed limbo dancers draw gasps from the hordes. And steel bands and sequinned singers strut their stuff under the palms. Come Fridays, though, partygoers head for Oistins. This sleepy fishing village holds its famous ‘Fish Fry’ every night, but it’s the Friday shindig that’s legendary. Cue hundreds of beachside shacks cooking flying fish, snapper and swordfish on wood-fired grills. Ramshackle rum huts doling out cold bottles of Banks. And live bands thumping out infectious reggae, hip-hop and calypso. And although things kick off at 6pm, it’s worth hanging out ‘til late. As the clock ticks past ten, the locals pour in. And that’s when the party really gets started.

Bubba’s Sports Bar, Rockley, Christchurch

This two-floored sports bar is one of Rockley’s liveliest spots. Expect giant video screens blasting out footie, motor racing and baseball amid the friendly chatter.

Ship Inn, St Lawrence

If it’s live music you’re after, this pubby club hosts local reggae and calypso bands. On other nights, DJs take over, spinning everything from bassy hip-hop to classic anthems. Rip-roaring stuff.

Olive’s Bar, Holetown, St James

Fluttering potted palms. Coral stone walls. And whirring ceiling fans. You half expect a tux-toting Humphrey Bogart to be propping up the bar here. Super-sauve, it’s made for a civilised margarita before or after dinner.

Harbour Lights, Bridgetown

Live bands. Limbo contests. And strutting stilt walkers. This nightspot spills onto the beach and stages razzamatazz dinner shows and dance parties. Don’t miss it - it’s a Bajan institution.

Waterfront Cafe, Bridgetown

Mellow jazz sets the mood at this harbourfront café-bar. Sink aperitifs on the terrace while you watch the lights of the boats on the Careenage.

Shopping

When it comes to shopping, Barbados sits firmly at the ‘handicraft’ end of the scale. Everywhere you turn, you’re greeted with shops jam-packed with crafts and trinkets hand-made by the locals. For the best selections, nose around the chattel villages in Holetown and St Lawrence. Set in lawns, these clusters of candy-coloured wooden huts are a souvenir-hunter’s heaven. Cue floaty wraps bursting to get to the beach. Rustic rush bags to brighten up those supermarket runs back home. And mahogany figurines of parrots and palms to perch on your mantelpiece. Topping the take-home list is Bajan pottery. It’s everywhere - chunky jugs, plates and bowls decorated in giddy swirls of orange, blue and green. For the best examples, head out to the pottery studios in the hills of St Thomas and St Andrew. Peek inside the workshop-come-galleries to see the potters crouched over their spinning wheels and then take your pick from the fresh-from-the-kiln lines. When you feel a shopping splurge coming on though, make a beeline for Bridgetown. The main haunt is Broad Street. Stuffed with jewellers, china shops, art galleries and boutiques, it’ll burn through your Bajan dollars big time. And lots of the shops here are duty-free, offering designer watches, gemstones and cameras at a fraction of the prices back home. Make sure you pick up some Bajan rum, too. The duty-free drinks emporiums here have a mind-boggling choice of varieties and vintages. Just remember though - you’ll need your passport and travel tickets at the checkout. And if you can’t get to Bridgetown, don’t worry. St James, Christchurch and St Philip parishes all have duty-free stores. Back in Bridgetown, it’s also worth pottering around the Pelican Craft Village. Down by the waterside, this toytown-esque mall is filled with dinky crafts shops that’ll have your souvenir list sorted in one.

Transfer time

Transfers to and from the airport are by coach or mini-van are not accompanied by a Holiday Rep.