Guide to Morocco Marrakech

Eating out

From the smoky grills of Jemaa el-Fna to the gourmet cuisine of the five-star hotels, finding somewhere to eat that suits both your palate and pocket is a piece of cake in Marrakech. While the square's vendors offer everything from grilled sausages to the less appealing sheeps' brains, you might prefer to frequent the restaurants dotted around the perimeters where you'll find a huge array of international dishes. Scale the heights of a rooftop terrace, like those at Restaurant Argana and Cafe de France, for superb views of the square. Get there at dusk and enjoy a meal overlooking this colourful spectacle lit up by the blazing scarlet sky which earns Marrakech its nickname. On the main avenue, Mohammed V, which connects the medina with Gueliz, the new town, you'll find a peppering of tempting eateries ranging from inviting bistros and Parisian-style pavement cafes to simple snack bars and roadside stalls. In traditional Moroccan eateries, food is served at low round tables and dishes are usually shared. And don't forget to try the mint tea. A light and refreshing tipple comprising Chinese green tea, fresh mint and lashings of sugar, it's poured at a height from sparkling silver teapots and served in delicate glasses. More than just a drink, it's believed to bring good luck and is a blessing for good health. Bon appetit!

Nightlife

Not surprisingly, as the sun slowly begins its descent into the horizon, most people swarm to the Jemaa el-Fna to watch the square stir like a great beast waking from a deep slumber. As you'd expect the city's entertainment hub is bordered by bars and restaurants so you won't have any trouble finding a comfortable spot from which to watch the proceedings unfold. Outside of the thick mudbrick walls of the medina, you'll find bars and clubs in Gueliz, created during the French protectorate. For something a little different, head for a fantasia. These big, folkloric parties are held in the open air or in torchlit tents and feature musicians, dancers, fireworks and amazing displays by Arab horsemen. Of course, hotels offer plenty in the way of evening entertainment too, with sultry piano bars, lively cabaret shows and pulsating nightclubs among the options available to you.

Shopping

From glittering brass and quirky antiques to leather slippers and love potions, the souks of Marrakech have got them all – and so much more. Foray into the rabbit's warren of lanes stretching away from the square and with a little careful haggling you'll emerge with a twinkling haul of treasures that'll forever remind you of your brush with this colourful city. As you wander through the tangle of tiny avenues you'll come across Souk Smarine, where bright kaftans, upmarket antiques and traditional carpets vie for both your attention and your money. Souk des Babouches is where master leatherworkers craft Moroccan slippers in every shade of the rainbow while Souk Chouari is the place to find huge piles of baskets in all shapes and sizes. Souk des Teunturiers is the dyers' quarters where you'll see great bundles of freshly-dyed wool and colourful swathes of fabric hung out to dry in the hot Moroccan sun, as nearby shoppers splash out on all manner of clothes, bags, hats and plenty more. Head to the Souk Addadine and you'll hear the thundering clatter of blacksmiths as they tirelessly hammer away at molten metal to create wrought iron lanterns, copper pots and brass platters. Meanwhile, for a large dose of local colour, don't miss the daily auctions. In La Criee Berbere, where slaves were auctioned until 1912, carpets are sold off to the highest bidder, while in Souk el-Batna hundreds of the city's leatherworkers haggle for skins and Rahba Kedima, or old square, is where the magicians and healers buy their supplies. Other trinkets you'll find in abundance include sparkling coffee pots, ornate hookahs, unusual lamps and musical instruments, plus herbs, spices, perfumes and potions. Remember – bartering is all part of the experience. A good starting point is to halve the initial price they give you and clinch a deal from there. Enjoy!