Guide to Morocco Agadir

Beaches

Agadir is hot stuff when it comes to sand and sea. Its beach is one of the biggest and best you'll ever clap eyes on. We're talking gold-dust sands that sink gently underfoot. And better still, it unravels for an incredible six miles, providing acres of space for you stake your territory, stretch out and soak up those rays. The waters are something else, too. Because they're fairly well sheltered from ocean winds, they're warm for the Atlantic – although the fairly strong undercurrents mean you'll need to take a little extra care when swimming. And when you're not taking cooling dips or snoozing in the sun, there are plenty of other ways to fill your time. All along the sands, you'll find friendly cafes and beach bars perfect for lazy refreshment stops. Exciting watersports like jet-skis and windsurfing. And even dune buggies and quadbikes if you fancy hightailing it off to the quieter ends of the sands. All in all, it's a beach to die for. When you want to cast your net wider, you're in luck too. Just 15 minutes out of town is the beach at Taghazout. Here, a long expanse of pristine sands are prized by surfers, swimmers and sunbathers alike. It's a fabulous spot for escaping the bustle of Agadir and enjoying a more laid-back vibe. And when you're ready to explore, unfold that map and head along the coast. Before long, you'll come to spectacular beaches and coves that'll make your heart miss a beat with their beauty. If you're lucky, you may even get one all to yourself. Pure gold.

Eating out

• Steaming hot couscous. Aromatic meat stews. Juicy dates. Fabulous fresh fish. You're in for a feast in Agadir. As Morocco's biggest tourist resort, it's rippling with restaurants, food stalls and seafront cafes, most specialising in authentic Moroccan cuisine. Cue 'harira', a rich chickpea broth usually accompanied by stacks of fresh dates. Or how about 'pastilla'? These bizarre-sounding filo pastry parcels stuffed with pigeon meat and dusted with icing sugar are surprisingly scrumptious. Alternatively, let your tastebuds loose on a slow-cooked 'tagine'. These spicy meat or vegetable stews are simmered for hours under conical clay lids until they're indescribably tender and fragrant. And don't forget 'couscous' – fluffy mounds of semolina grain mixed with chicken, lamb or vegetables that are meals in themselves. As for pudding, tuck into moist honey cakes or 'kaab el ghzal', crescent-shaped pastries oozing with sweet almond paste. Finish with some palate-cleansing mint tea and you'll have had yourself a banquet. Although Morocco is a Muslim country, alcohol's widely available in the tourist hotels, restaurants and bars so you can order a beer or a bottle of wine to go with your meal no problem. If you're craving more familiar flavours, stroll to the port area. Here you'll find outdoor cafes serving fish and shellfish straight from the sea. Take your pick from freshly grilled sardines, plump prawns and delicious sea bream. Alternatively, find a souk stall and snack on 'brochettes' – mouth-watering kebabs barbecued over hot coals. And when you fancy a slice of sophistication, there's plenty to tempt you. All around town smart hotel eateries and restaurants serve international and gourmet regional cuisine, the latter often betraying the French and Berber influences that have shaped Moroccan culture.
  
  
• Mimi la Brochette, Agadir – Feast on tagines and char-grilled kebabs at this welcoming restaurant bang on the beachfront.
  
  
• L'Imprive, Agadir – This blue-painted venue has a convivial atmosphere and dishes up fresh fish flavoured with herbs. And at 10 every evening, it transforms into a trendy tapas bar.
  
  
• Le Nil Bleu, Agadir – Another beachside eaterie, Nil Bleu does a mean line in tagines and other Moroccan treats, all complemented by sea views.
  
  
• Le Miramar, Agadir – Slurp down oysters, fish and seafood at this swanky restaurant in the Hotel Miramar. But be prepared to shell out – it's pretty pricey.
  
  
• Tagines of Tikiouine, Agadir - If you've got a yen for Morocco's clay-baked stews, this is heaven. On the outskirts of town, it's well worth the trip just to taste its sumptuous meat and chicken tagines made the old-fashioned way.

Nightlife

• If you're expecting everything in Agadir to shut at sundown, you're in for a surprise. Okay, as party places go, it's never going to rival the Med's heavyweight hotspots. But it's still got a good deal going on after dusk. First stop has to be the Boulevard of 20th August. This is the main beachfront strip and at nightfall, it morphs into a ribbon of flashing neon and candlelit terraces that stretch as far as the fishing port. Wander along here and you'll soon be caught up in the throngs gathering in its music bars, cafes and restaurants. Later, if you're still up for staying up, there's a clutch of nightclubs waiting. Playing everything from middle-of-road pop to Arabian music, R&B and trance, they'll keep you rooted to the dancefloor 'til late. And we're talking very late. Many don't open till the small hours so only dedicated night owls need apply. Or for a different kind of night, aim for one of Agadir's glitzy casinos and try your hand at a game of poker or blackjack. Want something more Moroccan? Then make for a belly dancing show. These colourful affairs are held in restaurants everywhere and guaranteed to get your hips shaking and feet stomping. Or up the Arabian-African atmosphere by joining in a Berber evening. All tambourines, tribal drums and thunderous applause, they're a fantastic insight into the culture of these ancient desert peoples. And of course, if you prefer things slow and smoochy, it's all here too. Take a seat at a stylish restaurant or lantern-lit terrace and dine under a twinkling canopy of stars to the sound of the waves.
  
  
• Papagayo, Agadir – Agadir's most happening nightspot, Papagayo struts its stuff in the Tikida Beach hotel. It boasts video screens and ear-banging Western music interspersed with Arab tunes.
  
  
• Flamingo, Agadir - Papagayo may be the most popular, but this is the hippest spot in town. Throw some shapes on the fountain-decorated floor, sip a cocktail or three and then lose yourself in the R&B, hip-hop and techno.
  
  
• Kasbah Tassila, Agadir – Want to dine the Berber way? This pink-walled Kasbah-style venue is situated out of town and serves time-honoured Moroccan dishes like 'couscous', accompanied by music and dancing.
  
  
• Casino Le Mirage, Agadir – Armies of one-armed bandits. Spinning roulette wheels. Blackjack and poker tables. They're all here in numbers if you fancy a flutter.
  
  
• Restaurant l'Alcazar - Fill your tummy whilst watching colourful belly dancers shimmying to Berber drums at this exotic restaurant in the Amidil hotel.

Shopping

Love shopping? Then you'll be in your element in Agadir. It's full to bursting with shops, souks and stalls – so much so that it's hard to know where to turn first. Take the Souq el Had. Step inside its rose-pink walls and you'll be greeted by a multitude of merchants and shops selling everything from pointy-toed 'babouche' slippers to mosaic-topped tables, hand-painted ceramics and chunky Berber jewellery. But before you buy, remember the two golden rules to shopping here. Number one - if you're offered some mint tea, accept it politely, it's all part of the ritual. And number two - make sure you haggle. It's standard practice everywhere. And you never know, it could bag you some brilliant bargains. The town's main market, it's crammed with stalls and traders hawking an eye-popping range of wares. Think tables loaded with perfectly smooth pyramids of fierily coloured spices. Shelves draped with brightly patterned Berber rugs and carpets called 'kelims'. Endless rows of soft leather goods, shiny copperware and 'djellabas' – Morocco's light and flowing kaftans. And as if this wasn't enough, there's still more to spirit those readies from your pocket. You'll find another Aladdin's cave of knick-knacks at the daily Municipal Market.