Guide to Luxor

Beaches

Temples, museums, bazaars – they're in no short supply in Luxor. But one thing this Egyptian titan hasn't got is beaches. Instead, it's bagged a front row on the banks of the Nile so views revolve around the river rather than the sea. Add to that a hotel scene bursting with pools and sun terraces and you've got plenty of opportunities to chill out between sightseeing. Choose one of the properties right by the Nile, meanwhile, and you get the best of both worlds. Gaze out across the world famous river from the comfort of your sundeck. Or, if you prefer to be a little more hands-on, wander down to the water's edge and sign up for a sailing trip on a traditional felucca. In fact, the only thing that's missing from this scene is the unwanted sand in your suntan lotion.

Eating out

• Thanks to the thousands of tourists that flock here, Luxor's choc-a-block with restaurants serving food from every corner of the world. Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Thai, French, Italian – they're all here. Most of the best eating spots are in the hotels. But the centre also has plenty to tempt you. Here, you'll find all the usual fast food suspects. As well as numerous cafes serving tasty British grub. But make sure you wrap your tastebuds around some local fare though. An exotic fusion of Arabic and Mediterranean influences, Egyptian food revolves around staples like rice, couscous, chickpeas, lamb and beef. Sink your teeth into a lamb kebab accompanied by a tangy yoghurt dip. Slurp on 'meloukhiya', a hearty vegetable broth. Feast on 'falafel', scrumptious ground chickpea patties usually stuffed into warm pitta bread. And don't miss the Nile perch. The ancient Egyptians worshipped these gigantic fish as gods and they taste fantastic. Then fill up with a delicious dessert like 'feteer' – filo pastry strips drizzled with honey or cream. As for drinks, take your pick. Alcohol is widely available and the local wines are better than many give them credit for. And as you'd expect in a hot country, Egypt does a mean line in thirst-quenchers. Crack open a chilled 'Saggara' beer or glug some 'karkady', the refreshing red hibiscus drink. And don't miss the local sugar cane juice. On a warm day, it's pure bliss in a glass.
  
  
• Marhaba, Luxor – With stunning views over Luxor Temple and the Nile, this popular rooftop terrace serves delectable 'meze' and Mediterranean dishes.
  
  
• La Mamma, Luxor – For a taste of Italy, give this picturesque garden restaurant in the Sheraton Luxor hotel a go. Tuck into mounds of steaming pasta or meat dishes, all in a pleasantly laid back atmosphere.
  
  
• Amoun, Luxor – In the heart of the Sharia el-Karnak bazaar, this is a great people-watching spot. Order sizzling kebabs or a super-fresh fruit juice whilst eyeing the endlessly fascinating procession of passer-bys.
  
  
• El Kababgy, Luxor – Tuck into an aromatic lamb tajines or sumptuous duck a l'orange at this canopied restaurant on the Corniche. Take your camera – the Nile views are out-of-this-world.
  
  
• The Lantern, Luxor – Beloved by Brits for its taste of home, not to mention Egyptian cuisine, this is knockout value. The lentil and potato soup comes highly recommended.

Nightlife

• High-energy clubs that thump 'til sun-up aren't really part of the Luxor landscape. That's because most of the sightseeing tours start early to avoid the midday heat. Faced with busy mornings, many people opt to keep their evenings slow and sedate. That said there's still plenty to keep you up and wide-eyed if you're in the mood. Book a table for two at a fancy Nile-side restaurant and linger over dinner under a sky spun with stars. Chat with new friends in a sophisticated cocktail bar. Mingle with the locals in a cosy coffee house, perhaps even puffing on a hubbly-bubbly pipe to round off the evening. Or show the alarm clock who's boss and boogie till the small hours at a cruiseboat or hotel disco. Whatever you do, save a night or two for a colourful belly dancing or Nubian folklore show. These popular affairs are laid on by hotels and cruiseboats especially for tourists and they're tremendous fun. They tend start slowly, but build to a terrific crescendo of dancing, singing and clapping. Don't be surprised if you end up twirling your tummy Egyptian-style or singing and shimmying to the infectious rhythms and tribal drums. Or for a quieter evening, why not take a felucca ride? Drifting along the Nile waters in one of these lovely boats as the sun colours everything rosy-pink will make for some unforgettable memories.
  
  
• Anubis, Luxor - The gentle waters of the Nile lapping near your feet. An ice-cold fresh juice cocktail in your hand. What more could you want? This delightful riverside terrace is made for chilled out evenings.
  
  
• Red Lion Disco, Luxor - Reminiscent of a British tavern, this lively dance-spot is friendly, fun and filled to the rafters with locals and tourists.
  
  
• Royal Bar, Old Winter Palace Hotel, Luxor – Step back into colonial Egypt in this elegant bar. Located in Luxor's most famous hotel, it's all high ceilings, fireplaces and chintz armchairs. And a piano plays every night, serenading your every sip.
  
  
• Sunset Cocktail Bar, Luxor – Knock back sundowners and icy beers at this buzzing bar, which offers up impressive Nile views, especially at twilight.
  
  
• Sound and Light Show, Karnak - This nightly extravaganza is a must. Gaze in wonder as a kaleidoscope of lights illuminates the massive temple whilst thunderous music and commentary tell the story of ancient Thebes.

Shopping

Retail therapy here is less boutique-chic and more rough-and-ready. Expect crowded street bazaars reverberating with the shouts of traders. Ramshackle stalls piled with knick-knacks on every corner. And tiny shops crammed to the gunnels with dust-laden trinkets. Your best bet for the usual holiday souvenirs is around Salah el din Square and the quirkily named Television Street. This is where you'll find the main tourist emporiums, selling everything from mini-pyramids and papyrus scrolls to fine silks and pure Egyptian cotton. For something a little less ordinary, head straight for Luxor's souks. You'll find them all over the centre and straggled along the east bank of the river. Here, merchants hawk a mind-boggling array of wares. Think shelf after shelf of pungent spices. Endless silver and gold jewellery. Hand-woven rugs and baskets. And stack upon stack of clay cooking pots. Another hotspot is the west bank, where you'll discover workshops piled high with Luxor's most famous product – alabaster. Sourced from local quarries, Egyptians have been carving ornaments from this smooth white stone for millennia. Local craftsmen spend hours patiently honing it into a huge variety of intricate ornaments, from camels and storage jars to replicas of ancient gods. And while you're here, don't miss the Papyrus Institute. It's great for snapping up that other Luxor favourite – authentic papyrus. Hand-painted with hieroglyphics and scenes from pharaonic legend, they're picture-perfect reminders of your Egyptian holiday. Oh, and one last thing. Wherever you're shopping, make sure you barter. Bargaining is part and parcel of the retail experience here, so haggle your heart out.

Local information

Why not try something magical and see the West bank of the Nile from above, floating over the river in a hot air balloon? This area is historically renowned, and full of local culture, so be sure not to miss out.

Location

250km south west of Hurghada

Transfer time

About 20 minutes