It’s the great wine bar that’s squirreled away in the backstreets. It’s the tapas joint that’s always packed out with locals. It’s the sight that the guidebooks forgot to mention. Basically, it’s all the best addresses that Majorca likes to keep quiet about…
Forn del Santo Cristo
2 Carrer Paraires
Palma de Mallorca
+34 971 71 26 49
Old-world artisan bakery dating back to 1910. Inside, baguettes line up like spears along the far wall. Out the back, you can hear bakers slapping dough on the benches. Famous for huge spiral pastries dusted with icing sugar called ‘ensaimadas’ – Majorcan take on a Danish pastry. Delicious.
24 Calle de Apuntadores
Palma de Mallorca
+34 971 21 40 11
Not your usual wine bar. Loads of bottles lined up in dispensers along the walls. Get a credit card to load up with money and use pay-as-you-go style. Can choose between a taster, a half glass, or a full glass. Great concept – can try wines wouldn’t normally go for (and have a sip of ones usually out of price range!).
Xelini Le Barrigon
19 Carrer Arxiduc Lluís Salvador
+34 971 63 91 39
Deia’s hippest tapas bar – been in business for 130 years. Michael Douglas, Susan Sarandon and Roman Polanski all past customers. Stayed nice and unshowy, though, just a small sign over entrance announcing its existence. Has a menu of 60-plus tapas. Good place to sit back under the beams and enjoy a taste of old-school Majorca.
13 Camino de San Carlos
Puerto de Andratx
+34 971 67 40 11
Restaurant with a view. Candle-lit terrace looks out over the yachts in Port of Andratx. Menu – Mediterranean food with a twist. Fish fresh from the net and produce straight from the market. Sea scallops in Calvados – match made in heaven. Homemade crème caramel – died and went to heaven. Three courses and wine around 60 euros.
Céramica de Joanna
1 Es Porxo
+34 699 52 18 72 (mobile)
Just off the main road leading up to the church. Easy to spot – giant ceramic fish head outside. Inside, rainbow-coloured tiles, lamps, plates and bowls. Everything hand-made by Joanna –American artist who came to Deia over 30 years ago. Does custom-made stuff, too. Opening hours vary – call Joanna’s mobile if no-one in studio.
49 Passeig d’es Port,
Literally only club in otherwise sleepy Porto Petro, about ten minutes’ drive from Cala D’Or. Out on a limb, so party goes on past closing time. Set in natural cave high above sea level – all low ceilings, flickering candles and little nooks carved into the rock. Casual dress, friendly punters and music from international DJs.
18 Puerto Portals
+34 971 67 72 93
One of swankiest coffee shops going. Right on marina, so you can celeb-spot as you sip (Redknapps often seen in these parts). Café Casino Royal delicious – Amaretto, espresso and whipped cream. Good for washing down a big wedge of Mallorcan almond sponge. Yum. Open ‘til late so good for cocktails, too.
Old-fashioned market in Pollensa’s Medieval old town. Bartering a must. Pick up picnic fodder in the main square – juicy peaches, dried ham, Majorcan cheese. Tangy olives mixed with pickles nice, too. Bargain sundresses and shoes down the side streets. Open 10am – 12pm every Sunday.
Reached via San Elm Port
Boat runs Monday to Saturday in summer
First boat 10am, last 3pm
Forest-cloaked isle off far west coast of Majorca. Boat about 15 euros for round trip. Great place to escape – no traffic or people living here, just sargantane lizards and few like-minded tourists for company. Climb Na Pòpia – island’s highest peak at 352 metres’ tall. Takes around three hours to hike but worth it for views.